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  • Already thinking ahead for next year....Thoughts?

    My little paradise. Gray bins were cuttings started Dec 28th. Now it's a race to see who gets to the 5' marker 1st. I'm planning on air layering most of them around the 30" mark next Spring as well as some growth that has popped up from underneath.
    You may only view thumbnails in this gallery. This gallery has 5 photos.
    RHODE ISLAND ZONE 6B

  • #2
    Big yard beautiful fig trees make a happy man
    Zone 5/6. WL: Black Ischia UCD, Exquisito, Vern's Brown Turkey, Florea, Iranian Candy, Smith, LSU Hollier&Champagne, Cyperus Honey, Lebnese Baskinta Purple, Col de Dema Blanc, Longue D'aoute

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    • #3
      Sorry I missed wife part
      Zone 5/6. WL: Black Ischia UCD, Exquisito, Vern's Brown Turkey, Florea, Iranian Candy, Smith, LSU Hollier&Champagne, Cyperus Honey, Lebnese Baskinta Purple, Col de Dema Blanc, Longue D'aoute

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      • #4
        Air layering at 30" is a good idea - as long as you want the additions to your flock and have the space - which you seem to have. I will be pruning and possibly disposing the cut portion depending on how lignified the cuts are. I am somewhat happy with the number of trees that I have including seconds of what I want to put in the ground. If I get my pick up truck running and out of the side driveway I will have space for 10 to 15 more trees but won't know what I might want until my current set fruit and I can evaluate them.

        Know a painter by chance?
        NNJ 6B
        Wishlist: Colar d'Albatera, Mary Magdalene's and the Virgin Mary's Fig, Red Lebanese BV

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        • #5
          Excellent collection, It's a lot of work but if done right....is very rewarding.

          Any of those going in ground?
          Kevin, N. Ga 7b Cheers!

          Wishing all of you a bountiful harvest!

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          • #6
            Sounds like a good plan although I would AL the sprouts right now
            CJ in Memphis 7b/8a….tight eyes, nonsplitters...Pons figs, French figs, Mario figs & tasty Cali seedlings!

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            • #7
              Ktrain I may put Desert King in the ground in a couple years. I'm not sure what others could withstand it inground. The gameplan for now is to keep almost all in 5 gallon pots for the next 2 years and go from there.
              RHODE ISLAND ZONE 6B

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              • Ktrain
                Ktrain commented
                Editing a comment
                Not sure what varieties you have but some will do fine, Even here in Georgia in ground will need some protection at least until they have a couple years under their belt.

                Sounds like you have a plan though.

                Happy growing!

            • #8
              TNJed I'm nervous to try this year as many of them that have sprouts are fairly short and on the thin side. These were baby cuttings in December. Do I gain or lose anything by air layering the shoots now versus next spring?
              RHODE ISLAND ZONE 6B

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              • TNJed
                TNJed commented
                Editing a comment
                Well you’ll have copies now vs later and the main stem will get more resources sooner vs next year. Each plant will be a bit more developed vs waiting IMO.

            • #9
              I've read a ton of AscPete 's pruning excerpts within the site. What I'd pay to have him just stroll through them with me or any of the other experts in here.
              RHODE ISLAND ZONE 6B

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              • AscPete
                AscPete commented
                Editing a comment
                Congrats the fig trees look great...

                I second ginamcd , If you are looking for spares I would start Air Layers now, they will be ready before fall and should not interfere with bud break next spring. Dead Heading or Delayed Dead Heading after dormancy and before bud break in Spring changes the Auxin / Cytokine balance which cause bud break and growth of scaffolds from the single main stem. If you Air Layer now do not girdle the stem, simply place the air layer container around some Leaf Petiole Scars (remove a leaf or two for the air layer container).

                If you already have some small branches off the main stem that you want to keep as scaffold branch "Locations" they should be pruned back after dormancy, to 1 - 2 nodes from the main stem and allowed to grow out with any new buds that will be future scaffolds next season. You could also Air Layer them Now, since they will be pruned back anyway.

            • #10
              I would only airlayer if you're 100% sure you want duplicates of all the trees. While I see plenty of outdoor growing space, if you're like many of us winter storage space becomes a major factor as the collection grows...

              And Desert King would be one of my last choices for inground in New England. Breba crops are finicky up here and seem to do better if the tree is kept dormant into May. That's pretty difficult to accomplish with an inground tree.

              If you do end up airlayering in the spring, it'll likely set you back a bit on forming second year scaffolds as the tree will still be expending energy on the tops until they are removed.

              If you don't get good, lignified wood at the 30" mark within the next few weeks, maybe just go for the heading cut and cuttings at dormancy, then if the cuttings don't root, allow an extra scaffold to grow for air layering next year.
              “The best time to plant a tree was 20 years ago. The second best time is now.”
              – Source Unknown
              MA 5b/6a

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              • #11
                ginamcd I'm trying to follow you and pete. I'll probably trade the single stem airlayer as well as the ones growing out from underneath. Without getting into the varieties, I will keep some as well. My limited experience with cutting at around 24 to 30" is that you cant predict exactly which scaffolds will form where.
                RHODE ISLAND ZONE 6B

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                • AscPete
                  AscPete commented
                  Editing a comment
                  You may not be able to predict them but if you do a true heading cut and remove a large section / portion of the apex along with most of the Auxins, you will get bud break along most of the remain stub at which point you can select which buds will remain as scaffolds and remove, snap off, rub out the rest...
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