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  • When to end fertilizing for the season

    Is there a way to calculate between last fertilizing and first frost in potted fig trees? Do you use a different calculation for established plants compared to those that are in one gallon stages? This is the first year that I read about this. Lost some baby trees in my garage last winter.

  • #2
    I don't know the technical answer for you but I'm sure you know it's not good to feed too late in summer because you want the plants to taper off for winter dormancy. I wouldn't feed past mid summer personally but I use slow release organics primarily. Too early to stop feeding shouldn't hurt your plants.
    Eugene OR 8b

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    • #3
      I haven't fertilized my potted trees for at least a month. I did use some controlled release so a bit of that is probably still active. The leaves are beginning to turn a lighter shade of green on a few plants. Most are still growing. I'm cutting back on water as much as possible. I want them to stop growing and I can see more and more tips quit sending out new leaves. Now they need to lignify so as to make good cuttings. And harden off for those needing that.

      In short season areas it's already late to be slowing the plants down.
      Alpine, Texas 4500ft elevation Zone 7
      http://growingfruit.org/

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      • #4
        Bry fruitnut

        Thanks for the advice 😊
        Fortunately I haven't fertilized for a month due to wanting to wait a while after up-potting. Purely luck, not planned 😂
        ​​​​​​

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        • #5
          Here's the same subject from a slightly older thread:

          https://www.ourfigs.com/forum/figs-h...op-fertilizing

          In short, it's recommended to taper off fertilizer 2-2.5 months prior to first frost.
          Jason. San Diego, CA - Zone 10A WL: Boysenberry Blush

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          • #6
            JCT
            Jason, thanks for the link. Lots of good information there.

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            • JCT
              JCT commented
              Editing a comment
              You are welcome! I found the link to this post in the forum stickies.

          • #7
            I am still pumping the first year trees with Miracle Gro All Purpose till late August. Will see whether that is a good cultural practice or not till next year.
            Cleveland South - Zone 5B.

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            • #8
              I stop the bi-weekly fertilizing in mid-August.
              “The best time to plant a tree was 20 years ago. The second best time is now.”
              – Source Unknown
              MA 5b/6a

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              • #9
                I added Osmacote according to manufacturer's instructions in April. I stop fertilizing with liquid fertilizer beginning of August. I wonder if there is enough residual Osmacote to retard lignification. My first frost date is mid October.
                Worcester, Massachusetts, Zone 6a - In containers 1 gal - 15 gal. Wish list: Dore' de Porquerolles

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                • #10
                  Vladimir
                  I'm also in the same situation, except that when making my mix for up potting some young trees I got carried away and used about twice as much osmocote! Now I am debating whether it's better to remove them and re pot in a pot twice as big or to keep them where they are. Patience is a vital asset in this hobby, this newbee is realizing.
                  Last edited by CeeFigs; 07-31-2021, 10:04 AM. Reason: Trying to over ride auto correct

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                  • fruitnut
                    fruitnut commented
                    Editing a comment
                    Don't repot just for that. A bigger pot is just more room for roots and the fertilizer is still present. If anything that might increase growth. The idea is to halt growth asap.

                • #11
                  And what about cutting down on water in order to promote lignification? Does one do this in tandem with halting fertilization?
                  Salvatore - my students call me SC
                  Zone 6a, SW Cleveland

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                  • fruitnut
                    fruitnut commented
                    Editing a comment
                    Yes

                  • ginamcd
                    ginamcd commented
                    Editing a comment
                    Only later in the season after the weather has cooled down and (hopefully) most of the figs have ripened.

                • #12
                  Last application of fertilizer was yesterday I gave all my trees some Alaska fish fertilizer and most of my trees slowing down and hardening branches
                  https://youtube.com/channel/UC5h21iFO5_6U1a3xBGI09RA

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                  • #13
                    Is there any evidence that the amount of fertilizer in the soil influences lignification rates of existing wood in a meaningful way? I understand that new growth needs more time to harden up and less new wood = less wood needing time to lignify, is that what you guys mean?

                    In nature I’m guessing that trees don’t lose access to nutrients at the end of the growing season - they probably just take their cues from temperatures and day length / light intensity all falling together and get ready for winter.
                    Eric - Seattle / Sunset Zone 5 - W/L: Granato - Now offering fig-pops, my rooting mix, and gritty potting mix! https://www.figbid.com/Listing/Brows...er=pacnorwreck

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                    • ginamcd
                      ginamcd commented
                      Editing a comment
                      After dormancy I'm pruning back to old wood anyway, so having everything fully lignified is not critical. As long as the trees are subjected to enough cold weather to bring on full dormancy, I can prune off and toss any wood that's still green.

                    • PacNorWreck
                      PacNorWreck commented
                      Editing a comment
                      Agreed. Our autumns here have a very gentle off ramp anyway… figs stop growing due to temperatures in late Sept / early October, first frost isn’t until November or December usually.

                  • #14
                    I’m going to cut my trees back after dormancy to hard lignified wood. Is there a big discrepancy on success rate of rooting fully lignified wood vs some green still present, if done immediately. Or is the difference just in the storage and shipping of the cutting?
                    Travis - Cincinnati OH. Zone 6
                    wishlist- ondata, Verdolino, rosselino, lsu Scott’s black, crozes, brown sugar crunch https://youtube.com/channel/UCYp6pIa2-WlnommArTGKlpQ

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