Pruning, Shaping, Manicuring, Figscaping, Trimming question!

[LouNeo]

I have tried searching for some of the above terms and really didnt find what I was looking for so figured I would ask and see what y'all had for answers. This is my first real season with any figs growing a full season... so now im at the point where its time to do something about the odd shapes my root cutting trees are in and even some of the airlayers I picked up that I just let grow. My plan is to airlayer whatever makes sense and then just trim the rest to set them up for growth next year and to get their shapes into something that makes sense.

Here are 2 Panache trees that I had shipped in from the west coast, they were chopped to get them to fit in the shipping boxes. I highlighted the growth with red and am just trying to understand the shape most people want their figs to be in. My plan is to keep most of these in larger pots next year, very few will be in the ground and the ones that do go in the ground are not going to be allowed to grow huge. So I want to maximize figs without maximizing height I guess. Thoughts, suggestions, videos and or resources? Thank you!

[LouNeo]

Ignore the chicken tearing up my old strawberry plants. At least they arent knocking over fig trees today.

[WillsC]

That is a tough one Lou. Some people like that long central leader. Some want them to look like trees, others want bushes. Not sure there really is a right or wrong way to do it exactly, just opinions that are predicated on personal preference.

[LouNeo]

That is the wrong answer haha just kidding, I definitely understand that there are reasons for all types of pruning. My issue is never having seen a fig tree mature, I'm literally clueless as to what I want to shape it into. The last thing I want is a tree where the branches start at 4 ft. This is a stupid question but if you prune for a branch at 2 ft now will that branch always be around 2 foot it will there be any vertical growth besides the shoots?

[AscPete]

There will be some vertical growth due to the increase in stem and branch caliper size, but it will be in inches...

This increase in caliper / diameter also has to be considered when pruning and shaping the potted trees, especially when trying to maintain a smaller canopy size.

[WillsC]

I had to read that a couple times but I think I get it. The trunk does not get longer, it simply grows from the top upwards so a branch that is now at 2' from ground where it emerges from the trunk will stay at that 2' mark.

[don_sanders]

Branches grow at the tips so a branch at two feet will always stay at two feet.

I grow in bush form personally because I'm in containers that I don't want to topple over and I'm in a cold zone.

I try to grow 1 - 3 main leaders that branch into 3-4 scaffolds total that branch into 6-9 fruiting branches. Similar to the diagram Pete shares. 5 gallon containers. Figs can be hard to keep under control though with their aggressive growth so I've they don't all look that way.

Bamboo sticks and plastic green garden tape to train as needed.

[AscPete]

Potted fig trees can be almost any shape Bush, Tree or a small Espalier.

To get your desired shape training should start early, establishing a main stem or trunk ( 3 - 6 inches) that will support the low scaffold branches of the bush or low espalier form or the taller (12 - 24 inches) main trunk of the tree form, which can keep the overall height of the tree under 6 feet.

The main stem / trunk, scaffold branches and cordons are permanent branches that support the temporary fruiting branches that are pruned yearly or every 2 years.

Its up to you to decide on your desired fig tree shape. ... Good luck.

[LouNeo]

Unfortunately I think a lot of mine a more vertical growers currently so I will have to decide if I'm airlayering to fix or pruning end of year haha.

[AscPete]

If you air layer off all the top growth now till dormancy, you can cut those main stems to 6 inches for bush or 12 - 16 inches for tree form next Spring. New buds will break on the stems which will become scaffold branches the following year, but will be next season's fruiting branches.

[LouNeo]

I think that is the plan I had in my head. Will figure out which buds I want to push and then airlayer above it then make sure I cut in the right spot so the new scaffolds dont overlap if I can help it. I will set the airlayer tomorrow. I just hate seeing all that wasted growth for that tree. I will fertilize it for a little bit more to see if it will push new growth though. Thank you!

[jrdewhirst]

My two cents. First, a caveat -- I'm new at this. So I'm relying on only 3 years' experience.

1. If you want a low tree but lots of figs, it seems you need lots of branches. That takes roots, so it's good that you plan to move the plants in-ground or into big pots. Given the trees you have, you probably want to pinch the current leader and branches to promote branching lower down. There are more extreme methods that others might suggest as well.

2. For in-ground plants, a 1' trunk with 2-4 horizontals (parallel to ground) each 4-8' long can produce a ton of figs in a space 3' wide by 8-16' long by 3-6' high (depending on pinching, late in the season). It's pruned to <2' high for winter.

3. For potted plants, you can try to replicate that shape, only smaller -- maybe the horizontals are 2-3' long. Or like most people, you can create a main trunk 2-3' high with 2-4 scaffolds (and then branches) rising at ~30-45 degrees from the trunk. That tree might be 6' high late in the season, 4' high after pruning.

4. If you plan to plant some trees outside and keep the others in big pots, why not up-pot them now? That would encourage the growth you need. So I'd up-pot and pinch, then after some growth start pruning or air-layering what's unwanted..

5. Do you want brebas as well as main crop figs? You get a somewhat different answer, especially about pruning, if you want brebas.

I started my first cuttings this past winter. Based on my experience, I would strongly encourage you to move to the biggest pots you want to manage, either immediately or maybe 1st thing next year. Use pots with drainage holes and a well-draining medium, but then supply lots of water. In my limited experience, inadequate water is more likely to limit growth than any thing else.

As an example of what's possible, the picture below is Emerald Strawberry, started from a cutting in January 2016, in a 15 g SIP. It was root-bound when moved from a 10 g SIP. I pinched the leader to encourage branching and later pinched the branches. I haven't decided yet, but I'll probably cut the leader to open up the center. I don't think I'd have any problem at all creating a structure with a 6-12" trunk and 3 scaffolds. After spreading and branching, it could be 4-5' wide and 5-7' high.

There're lots more just like that -- LSU Gold, Fico Nero Duemane, a bunch of different Mt Etnas. If an 8" twig can become a small shrub in basically 8 months or less, imagine what you can do with your trees.

[LouNeo]

Joe my biggest issue is I have at least 100 to 150 trees mostly in 1 gallon pots that I want to end up selling locally just to unload them. So wanted to show growth. I got into a rooting frenzy and rooted anything with bark last year. Those I might deal with later but my keepers are ones id like to start shaping a bit.

Thank you for your answer as well I will read it again when I get home I'm sure. Go Patriots!

[AscPete]

I've found the fastest way to get largest canopy size, main stem caliper and earliest production is to train as single stem (in 1 gallon) then prune off the top for the desired form. The tops can also be air layered off, the roots and larger caliper stem will push multiple buds when the top end is removed.
The attached photo is typical of healthier 1st and 2 leaf fig trees.


A bush form is achieved by simply removing more of the main stem, the lowest bud could also be re-trained as the main trunk if there are any problems or issues. This pruning procedure has been 100% successful,
https://www.ourfigs.com/forum/figs-h...-espalier-form

[ThaiFigs]

Here's my recommendation for shaping in ground fig plants. This is my first attempt to make a step-over cordon. Mine will be high enough to easily mow under.

[RegencyLass]

That (the step-over cordon) is what I'm planning to do with some of mine. Much easier to protect come winter.

[cjmach1973]

From looking at the few trees that I have that are larger, they seem to do their most consistent producing from branches that are at least 2 years from the main stem. I try to have a 2 to 3 foot main trunk, with second and third year branches above that height. Then in the fall after the leaves have fallen off., I trim them to try and keep them balanced, and prevent them from having clashing branches next year. And also to fit in the cellar door. I have read that blueberries produce best from branches that are 2 years plus out from a main stem, and from my limited experience, it seems like at least some of the figs are the same.

[ThaiFigs]

Commercial (srep-over) production in Japan is almost always on new growth coming off the main cordon (the first year), or off the first or second node of the previous year's branches (subsequent years). One fig patent I found even had a method for replacing the main cordon every two years, as eventually productivity apparently drops off if the main cordon gets too old. This is for main crop figs, brebas are not possible following their methods exactly...

[The Figster]

Something to consider. Any pruning you cut off now does not have much chance to grow - you can't reliably trade it now, But if you can let some of your plants go fully dormant then prune them you will have trade-able cutting material. If you don't have to prune it now, don't. good luck

[LouNeo]

ThaiFigs, for the most part people here would rather root lignified cuttings because they dont have as much of a risk of drying out as new growth. Its "easier" to not have to wrap the green cuttings to protect them so most people would rather not get them. I understand what Ian is saying and it does make sense as well. I just dont know if I have enough growth on many of my 1 gallons to get anything worth trading but we will see, another month or so of growth!

[ThaiFigs]

Yes I agree lignified cuttings are much easier to ship and trade. Doesn't mean you need to wait for the plant to be dormant, however.

[LouNeo]

I agree with you, I will root almost anything I can, which is why I have this problem

[ThaiFigs]

I up-potted this year old tree a few months ago. Now it's time to get busy and shape it also. It lost most of its leaves to caterpillars and fig rust, but that shouldn't keep it from looking like the one in my previous photo before the year is over.