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  • Who is using Clonex or what if any rooting hormone are you using?

    I have used Clonex several times and believe it is beneficial.

    So what have you found out about rooting hormones and do you use them and which ones?

    Also do you score your cuttings?
    Darkman AKA Charles in Pensacola South of I-10 zone 8b/9a

  • #2
    Clonex, Rootone, etc. all work great, and I have not found a need to score my green cuttings. I take a six or so inch piece, dip it in cloning gel, stick it in rock-wool and keep it in a humidome until I get roots. The tray has roughly an inch of nutrient solution which will wick up the rock-wool.

    What is really important is acclimating it to the outside world once it is ready. Taking the dome off at this stage once a day in incremental periods is required. Otherwise you risk it wilting-dying.

    Comment


    • #3
      Im trying K-L-N from Dynagro which the University Of Florida has had great success with some plants...I'll chime in with my results in a few weeks.

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      • #4
        I don't use any rooting hormone. I usually do score most cuttings of anything I start, but I didn't the last couple figs. Forgot.
        SoCal, zone 10.
        www.ourfigs.com Invite your friends.

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        • #5
          I have used both Clonex and Dip and Grow. Seems to be a slight edge to the dip and grow for quickness. I also score all my cuttings.
          Dave- Waterford, Ct. Zone 6a

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          • #6
            Score? is this a special rooting term?

            Comment


            • Darkman
              Darkman commented
              Editing a comment
              To me a score is a scrape that I inflict on the cutting. I only scrape down to the green cambium layer. Some times I scrape all the way around (a ring) and sometimes I scrape up and down (vertically) the lower portion of the cutting in two or three spots around the cutting. That is my definition of a score!

              I was doing some testing, vertical vs around, when I had some health issues that disrupted the testing so I cannot comment on if one is better than the other OR is it is needed at all!

          • #7
            I use Dip n Grow it has both IBA and NAA plant hormones...

            Clonex is IBA @ 3000 PPM

            Dip N Grow is a concentrate @ 10,000 PPM IBA and 5,000 PPM NAA that has to be diluted. I've used the DIP N Grow successfully at the 10X dilution (1 Part DnG to 9 Parts water). At the 10x dilution Dip n Grow is 1,000 PPM IBA and 500 PPM NAA. I've also tested at different dilutions and at full strength.

            I no longer "score" the bottom end of the cuttings. Instead I sometimes place two (2) 1/2" long longitudinal slices with the tip of a utility razor, through the bark near the bottom end of the cutting. I also only dip the cut bottom end of the cutting in the hormone. From previous tests too much hormone will retard shoot (leaf) growth or may produce too much roots and use up all the cuttings' reserves and "burn out" the cutting.

            Root development on cuttings without hormone, groups are scraped, scored, sliced and none, rooted in Long Fibered Sphagnum Moss
            Click image for larger version

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            A scored cutting with Dip N Grow @ 10X brushed on the score and the entire basal (bottom) node section, rooted in Long Fibered Sphagnum moss.
            Click image for larger version

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            No scoring, bottom cut end only dipped in 10x Dip n Grow... Rooted in CocoCoir
            Click image for larger version

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            Pete R - Hudson Valley, NY - zone 5b

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            • SCfigFanatic
              SCfigFanatic commented
              Editing a comment
              Pete you have a excuse for everything.
              One minute you say one thing then when somebody else
              changes you just follow suit and re pete.

              Doug

            • Go_Figger
              Go_Figger commented
              Editing a comment
              Wow someone skipped critical reading in school. Pete didn't change his position.

            • Go_Figger
              Go_Figger commented
              Editing a comment
              Lol nice pun though

          • #8
            Recently used clonex gel on some air layers with good results.
            On 2 trees I took 2 layers and only applied clonex on one of each tree. On one tree the untreated girdle healed up completely (provided a serious growth and branching boost though) and on the other untreated layer on the other one, there was modest natural root development. On the other hand, the clonex gel made the layers that were treated with it produce thick ropes of roots which filled up the sphagnum and plastic wrap nicely. I still haven't cut them yet, waiting for a spare minute to do the potting dance. I was planning on sharing some pics in a post later and showing how that untreated girdle that healed actually kicked a root sucker into a contender.
            RI Zone 6a
            Container Herder

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            • #9
              Wow it seems this topic has some great interest. I now wish I hadn't been impatient and ordered some Clonex before I posted this topic. I have had decent results with the Clonex and I am very anxious to try it with the Coir. I definitely will order the Dip N Grow and try it too.

              Pete Why TWO longitudinal cuts only?

              Also do you use a different method with green cuttings?
              Darkman AKA Charles in Pensacola South of I-10 zone 8b/9a

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              • #10
                Pete Longitudinal means vertical? I thought a fresh cut at the bottom of the cutting was recommended? Now we also have two vertical cuts into the bottom of a cutting?
                Rafael
                Zone 7b, Queens, New York

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                • AscPete
                  AscPete commented
                  Editing a comment
                  Doug,
                  If you had taken the time to read the entire topic you would have seen the unedited posts like the one 2 posts down, http://www.ourfigs.com/forum/figs-ho...2085#post12085 which clearly explains the longitudinal slices or thin scores for larger caliper cuttings.

                • SCfigFanatic
                  SCfigFanatic commented
                  Editing a comment
                  Not just this thread pete, I'm talking about over the years
                  and Mod's have the ability to edit their past postings without it showing that it was edited.
                  Last edited by SCfigFanatic; 11-26-2015, 03:18 PM.

                • WillsC
                  WillsC commented
                  Editing a comment
                  Moderators do not have the ability to edit posts theirs or others without leaving the edited by designation except for the first 5 minutes after a post is made. They did though have the ability to chose if it would say edited by or not until recently, that was my mistake and has been fixed. My apologies.

              • #11
                Cloning gel is by far the easiest way to get roots. If the cutting is healthy your getting roots, period. Scoring or no. I have never not gotten roots when I did not score using Clonex.

                The only thing to remember is that although plants love it, it is poison to people (indo butryic acid - IBA)
                and not recommended for food products as its says right on the bottle. Ornamental use only per manufacturer.

                Definitely rinse out that cutting real good once it is established to dilute the IBA.

                Comment


                • AscPete
                  AscPete commented
                  Editing a comment
                  IBA and NAA are naturally occurring Plant Hormones and are non-toxic to humans.
                  http://www.epa.gov/opp00001/chem_sea...1_1-Aug-00.pdf
                  Its also metabolized by the plants (cuttings) within 24 - 48 hours.
                  http://www.hortus.com/IBAarticles/Epstein_1993.pdf

                • HydroFig
                  HydroFig commented
                  Editing a comment
                  Pete I respectfully disagree.

                  The EPA is not claiming 'non-toxic' to humans, but 'low toxicity' if and only if tiny amounts are used. EPA also states that it 'might' naturally occur in plants (so does nicotine by the way).

                  It is true that in a commercial setting this stuff is used in trace amounts.

                  But many would-be backyard gardeners put waaay too much of this stuff on for just one cutting.

                  The manufacturer is specifically stating not to be used on food products for a reason. Just look at your label, don't take my word for it.

                  Again I'm not saying that this stuff is Cyanide, however being a health nut I am a bit more cautious than most.

                  Personally I'm the kind of person who washes fruit from the store before I eat it.

                  Call it personal preference I guess.

                  If it were totally safe then I would be able to swallow a tablespoon of it with no consequences... not something I'd try.

                  Anyway my preference is to wash it off, again because I'm more cautious than not.

                  To each his/her own.


                  Either way, it is not 'non-toxic' --> http://datasheets.scbt.com/sc-279212.pdf

                  EMERGENCY OVERVIEW
                  RISK
                  Toxic if swallowed.
                  Irritating to eyes, respiratory system and skin.

                  IBA is an “Acute Health Hazard” and “Chronic Health Hazard” under Section 311/312 Hazard Classes of
                  SARA Title III Rules (MSDS-IBA, 2007).

              • #12
                Longitudinal Slices
                They are just very narrow short scores, look closely at the third (3rd) group of cuttings from the left in the first (1st) picture in post #7. I use these narrow scores only for larger caliper cuttings.

                There is one (1) bottom cut and its made directly below the lowest node, or as close to it as possible, to keep it intact. When using a bypass pruner I position the "anvil surface" away from the cutting, towards the "waste" piece for a closer cut at the node.

                For green cuttings you can use 20X or less concentration, but again only at the bottom cut, they can then be placed in one of the many "summer rooting methods".
                Pete R - Hudson Valley, NY - zone 5b

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                • #13
                  Thanks Pete,

                  Coir and Clonex here tomorrow! I'll be rooting what is left in my fridge and some fresh cuttings this weekend.
                  Darkman AKA Charles in Pensacola South of I-10 zone 8b/9a

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                  • #14
                    Coir and Clonex and some Gnat Nix on top

                    Click image for larger version

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                    Wish List -

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                    • dmcneo2
                      dmcneo2 commented
                      Editing a comment
                      Dave, i am new to Coir, so how long before you see roots?? I am not seeing roots and it has been over a month with scoring and clonex. I guess i did someting wrong?

                  • #15
                    What is in GNAT MIX?
                    Darkman AKA Charles in Pensacola South of I-10 zone 8b/9a

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                  • #16
                    Thanks Pete,

                    Guess I'll buy some!
                    Darkman AKA Charles in Pensacola South of I-10 zone 8b/9a

                    Comment


                    • AscPete
                      AscPete commented
                      Editing a comment
                      I can't recommend it since I've never tried it, but sand has been used by some members including myself and "bottom" watering will keep the top of the containers dry and Gnat free, as will using "clean" medium like Coir. Good Luck.
                      Last edited by AscPete; 03-26-2015, 10:22 AM. Reason: typo

                    • Dave
                      Dave commented
                      Editing a comment
                      https://youtu.be/LydGUa9So9c

                  • #17
                    Originally posted by HydroFig View Post
                    Either way, it is not 'non-toxic' --> http://datasheets.scbt.com/sc-279212.pdf
                    The document is specifically targeted to Commercial Manufacturers... the listed percentage of IBA is >99% or Pure IBA, most "chemicals" in such high concentrations will be harmful in some way...


                    The Epa document, http://www.epa.gov/opp00001/chem_sea...1_1-Aug-00.pdf
                    With the exception of certain workers, no harm is expected from use of indole-3-butyric acid. The active
                    ingredient is not toxic to humans or other mammals... In animals, indole-3-butyric acid is rapidly broken down to a closely related, harmless chemical that occurs naturally in living organisms.
                    The % concentrations referred to in the document, <1.0% are the concentrations that are available to the general public in the available Rooting Products

                    BTW, I also wash all my store bought produce
                    Pete R - Hudson Valley, NY - zone 5b

                    Comment


                    • Go_Figger
                      Go_Figger commented
                      Editing a comment
                      Lol who DOESN'T wash produce?

                  • #18
                    I use a horizontal score under the last node. I have used this the last 2 years with great success.
                    I just scrape a line with my finger nail about a quarter inch below the node. I go about 1/3 of the way around the cutting just getting into
                    the cambium layer then I dip in and out with clonex and put into pre made hole in dirt cup. I do not want to wipe the clonex off.

                    When I first mentioned vertical scoring the cutting back on f4f years ago, everyone jumped in to say they were "then" scoring "their" cutting.

                    So here's another idea people can try.
                    Try it, it works.

                    Doug
                    Last edited by SCfigFanatic; 03-26-2015, 11:43 AM.

                    Comment


                    • SCfigFanatic
                      SCfigFanatic commented
                      Editing a comment
                      This type of scoring appeared at first to be working. The more I tried it the more I found rot just around the scoring
                      when I was planting the leafed out cutting in the soil. It did not always kill the plant but it did not look like it was helping it
                      so I have stopped scoring anything. Hope it helps.


                      Doug
                      Last edited by SCfigFanatic; 11-23-2015, 12:40 PM.

                  • #19
                    I never stated it but I (on the good as gold advice of FMD) applied the Clonex sparingly! I did this by dipping a Q-Tip in the Clonex and then painting on the areas that I wanted it on which at that timewas the scored areas.
                    Darkman AKA Charles in Pensacola South of I-10 zone 8b/9a

                    Comment


                    • #20
                      Last fall, the friendly people at my local hydroponics store gave me a free sample of Rootech, a rooting hormone which is .55% Indole-3 Butyric Acid. I’m new at rooting fig cuttings but have had good success with rooting grapes, roses, and plumeria in the past. I’ve used Dip and Grow with good results, but it all has to be used up within a short time period. Since I just get a few cuttings each week from eBay, (okay -sometimes more than a few) a lot of Dip and Grow would go to waste. Rootech is already mixed and can be used as needed with little waste.
                      With one batch of cuttings from eBay, I treated half with the Rootech and left half untreated. The picture below shows the varieties grouped together in twos, threes, and fours with the hormone treated cuttings on the left. There was some slight lag of sprouting with the Rootech cuttings compared with the untreated of some of the varieties. But they have quickly caught up in size with the untreated AND have healthy roots, unlike the untreated. I’m going to use Rootech on all my cuttings in the future.
                      You may only view thumbnails in this gallery. This gallery has 1 photos.
                      Mara, Southern California,
                      Climate Zone: 1990=9b 2012= 10a 2020=?

                      Comment


                      • AscPete
                        AscPete commented
                        Editing a comment
                        Dip N grow can always be mixed in smaller quantities as needed... @ 5x dilution (0.5% IBA), 1/4 teaspoon to 1 teaspoon water... 1 drop to 4 drops water etc. If you use a separate container to do the actual dipping (large bottle cap), the unused uncontaminated mixed potions can be stored in a small bottle, just like Rootech.

                      • AscPete
                        AscPete commented
                        Editing a comment
                        Correction...
                        @ 2x dilution is equal to 0.5% IBA, 1 teaspoon DnG / 1 teaspoon water, etc. The Dip N Grow concentrate is 1.0% or 10,000 PPM.
                        http://www.dipngrow.com/wp-content/u...illion-PPM.pdf

                    • #21
                      Our you guys cutting tiny holes at the bottom of these Plastic cups for drainage?

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                      • drphil69
                        drphil69 commented
                        Editing a comment
                        Yes drainage is a must. I also put holes in sides for more air transfer. I use a drill, some use soldering iron.

                      • paracletefarms
                        paracletefarms commented
                        Editing a comment
                        Same here, I stack five clear 16oz cups together, then drill 3 holes evenly spaced on the bottom, then at different heights I run the drill through both sides. When I separate the cups I then have seven 1/4&quot; drainage holes in the cups total. The soil added is Bruce Miller pro-lite potting soil I believe. Hope this helps.

                    • #22
                      I will be putting three drainage holes on the bottom of my 16 oz. cups
                      Darkman AKA Charles in Pensacola South of I-10 zone 8b/9a

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                      • #23
                        I put 5 holes in the bottom of a 18oz cup. I also add holes to the sides of the cup. The more drainage the better.

                        Doug

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                        • #24
                          First ever attempt at Rooting a FIG, I used Dip n Grow!!!!! This was a Col De Dame Noir*** not a Blanc as mentioned in the video, I'm going crazy about that fig apparently.

                          https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E5SdjWRPmkE

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                          • #25
                            I use Dip n' Grow liquid, diluted to 20x in a solo cup, then grab a handful of pre-scraped cuttings and place them all in the cup (root end on bottom), submerge for approx. 5 seconds, shake of excess liquid and place cutting into the growing medium. Once you get started you can do a lot of cuttings (maybe 100-200) in a few hours.





                            Wish List : Cold Hardy/Prolific bearers - Letizia , Florea, G. Paradiso, Lattarula, any Sals varieties, Negronne, Navid's Unk. Dark Greek, Bass' Fav.

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