I guess I should have said weeds according to the forum member that provided me the seed.( you know your guilty) That is if they take over like you have warned me that they will. They have been planted in the ground now so we can see how fast they take off. I hope I can see fruit this year but if not next year any way. I would like to say thanks to everyone that is helping with this project. Any shared seedling information would be appreciated by those of us that are trying to establish the fig wasp in one areas.
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Theres 125 of them in four rows and there only 100 feet from the green houses and fig house. I kept them close so irrigation would be easy to install when it gets dry.Last edited by Hershell; 03-29-2015, 09:21 PM.Nothing in the world takes the place of growing citrus till figs come along. Ray City, Ga. Zone 8 b.
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Hershell, could you describe the origin of the seed i.e. what parents gave rise to the seed? What kind of characteristics will you be looking for in the seedlings and how will you score the winners? Looks like a fun project!Steve
D-i-c-k-e-r-s-o-n, MD; zone 7a
WL: Castillon, Fort Mill Dark, White Baca
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Most of the seedlings were from O'Rorke. Greenfig is my enabler and could chime in with some details. My goal is just to raise Capri figs and have enough to have fruit year round so the wasp will have a viable population. First I have to have adequate Capris and then get wasp. I'm not tryin in any way to evaluate new fig varieties.Nothing in the world takes the place of growing citrus till figs come along. Ray City, Ga. Zone 8 b.
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Steve,
As Hershell mentioned, he got the seeds from me. Here is the thread where you can see what seeds were sent:
I have a green and a black caprifigs nearby, any of those could have contributed the pollen. The germination ratio on my test seeds before I offered them was very high. I wouldn't offer the duds. Before shipping them, the sinking seeds were separated in a glass of water from the empty shells.
I might offer them again if there will be any takers.
A note about the seedlings.
Based on my own experience growing a few and observation in the nature, the seedlings will grow really fast. Under the favorable conditions, they may get to 6 feet tall by the winter. Those are not your gentle cuttings, they are the wild beasts, they are programmed for a survival . They eat gnats for lunch because of the very strong and developed root system. They will produce after reaching about 6 ft in height. That is why you need to choose one leader and let it grow freely. After you see the first fruit and you like to keep the tree, do an airlayer of the top 2 ft, you can discard the rest. It is easy to do when the seedlings are grow in pots.
I wouldn't plant the seedlings in the ground from the start in California. Their root system becomes too developed by the year end so it is really time consuming to remove an unwanted plant.
I am curious how the other seedlings are doing. I think I shipped about 10 envelopes.
Good luck with them! And be warned, they take no prisoners !USDA z 10a, SoCal. WL: Boysenberry Blush
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Now that I know what to expect from the seed and how to separate and plant them I would like to get some more. That is if I don't get enough capri figs this year I would try another group. I'm sure there will be plenty and air layers can be done to propagate more but it's dificult to dial back the CDO (ocd alphabetized).
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Greenfig, are the neighbors wondering the source of the new weeds? How long have your trees been caprified or do you know and when did you first start seeing seedlings.Nothing in the world takes the place of growing citrus till figs come along. Ray City, Ga. Zone 8 b.
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sorry for budding in but if your goal is to get caprifigs, and you are good at grafting, would it not be easyer to just graft on them with some capri darks and greens and get what you want this season? it could take years before you get caprifigs from seeds!!!andreas-patras Peloponnisos Greece zone 9a
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I have rooted several cuttings and members have sent me air layers that have figs on them but I just feel that I need more trees and seed were available. I currently have 12 small trees and still have some cuttings that are still in the rooting process. I don't think I will get too many and can always remove the ones I don't like.
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Cool! You have covered all the bases!
I was wondering, what is the primary goal of introducing the wasp with caprifigs, a possibility of the fig breeding or having a chance to grow the Smyrna figs or see if the wasp can be introduced in the area or all of the above?USDA z 10a, SoCal. WL: Boysenberry Blush
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Having never eaten a caprified fig I have to ask, how big do the seeds get?Darkman AKA Charles in Pensacola South of I-10 zone 8b/9a
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