X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • mosquito dunks

    Does anyone have experience using mosquito dunks for fungus gnat control? How do you use them? Are they crumbled and sprinkled over the surface of the soil, or are they dissolved in water? Are they drawn to the mosquito dunks, or do they just eat them by accident? Thanks.

  • #2
    I was not impressed with the effectiveness of Mosquito Dunks. 1 to 3 tsp per gal are placed in water overnight to dissolve prior to watering. The larva is targeted, so the process must be repeated at 3 week cycles. I estimated that I saw maybe a quarter reduction in gnats (which had been received in a potted tree).

    What I'd recommend is Riptide pyrethrin. It is a 'once and done' treatment that likewise is diluted into the plant's water, and can be used in a spray bottle to mist the buggers out of the air. Terrific stuff.
    CA 9b "May you sit under your own fig tree..." This metaphor, in use since Solomon, is a wish for the receiver's spirit to know peace, for their family to be secure, and for their life to be fruitful.

    Comment


    • Fygmalion
      Fygmalion commented
      Editing a comment
      Sounds really good.... I will have to look that stuff up... been using natrol extensively since summer but I feel that is has shown limited success in controlling the buggers in spite of using higher end recommended concentrations...

  • #3
    As blue mentioned, a lot of people have hit or miss success with mosquito dunks or bits which are made from bti but not as high doses as other treatments. Effective treatments I've used from recommendations here and other boards is gnatrol which is pure bti and very effective, you can get it on eBay or amazon for cheap.

    I found an even cheaper alternative that a lot of 'other' indoor growers use and it's 10x cheaper than gnatrol and just as effective. Microbe lift bmc. I just got it yesterday actually. Lasts a long time.



    good luck!
    May the Figs be with you!
    ​​​​​

    Comment


    • Rewton
      Rewton commented
      Editing a comment
      I have actually found gnatrol to be a bit pricey but effective. Thanks for the tip on the microbe lift.

    • BrooklynMatty
      BrooklynMatty commented
      Editing a comment
      Gnatrol can be pricey if you have a medium/heavy infestation and large amount of cuttings. That's why I'm trying this stuff , a lot of the medical growers recommend this.

  • #4
    I use carnivorous plants and spiders, gnats are not an issue.
    Scott - Colorado Springs, CO - Zone 4/5 (Depending on the year) - Elevation 6266ft

    “Though the problems of the world are increasingly complex, the solutions remain embarrassingly simple.” – Bill Mollison

    Comment


    • #5
      Oh, that's right... I had forgotten about Scott's solution!

      I'd lean more toward his remedy... they made short work of his troublesome Ex.
      CA 9b "May you sit under your own fig tree..." This metaphor, in use since Solomon, is a wish for the receiver's spirit to know peace, for their family to be secure, and for their life to be fruitful.

      Comment


      • COGardener
        COGardener commented
        Editing a comment
        Feed me Seymore!!!

    • #6
      I agree with the above. I haven't tried predatory plants or Microbe Lift BMC but mosquito dunks didn't do anything for me. Gnatrol helps but still take multiple applications. Chemicals, of course, work better if you are OK with that option. Hydrogen Peroxide works well too. Sticky traps help catch the flyers and judge the level of infestation. 1 inch of sand on top of pots helps but will not stop them.
      Don - OH Zone 6a Wish list: Verdolino, Black Celeste

      Comment


      • #7
        Thanks for the advice, everyone. Don, do you just use the hydrogen peroxide straight, or does it need to be diluted? I love Scott's idea, but at this point I think I would need as many carnivorous plants as I have fig cuttings.

        Comment


        • don_sanders
          don_sanders commented
          Editing a comment
          I've tried around 10-15% h2o2 with good results. I've heard anywhere from 1 cup per gallon to 30% (5 cups per gallon).

          Cuttings are difficult because you need to saturate the soil but too much moisture can rot cuttings.
          Last edited by don_sanders; 12-11-2016, 10:27 AM.

      • #8
        That's a lot of gnats, I hope you get them under control soon.
        Last edited by COGardener; 12-10-2016, 07:18 PM.
        Scott - Colorado Springs, CO - Zone 4/5 (Depending on the year) - Elevation 6266ft

        “Though the problems of the world are increasingly complex, the solutions remain embarrassingly simple.” – Bill Mollison

        Comment


        • #9
          Just out of curiosity what soil are you using in your cuttings?
          Wish List -

          Comment


          • #10
            I had decent reduction using diatomeous earth sprinkled on top of soil
            Shailesh, Pennsylvania, ZONE 6B

            Comment


            • #11
              Originally posted by COGardener View Post
              That's a lot of gnats, I hope you get them under control soon.
              Yes, one of my newly rooted cuttings has been completely defoliated. Several others have yellowing leaves. I put out several fly tape traps, but they don't do anything for the larva. Shailesh, thank you for the advice. I may try that. Dave, I am ,using Pro Mix HP.

              Comment


              • #12
                Let the soil almost dry out. Take 2 inch top soil out and replace with sand. Rubber band coffee filter around bottom of pot and bottom water only.
                Zone 5 Chicago IL Wish list:
                1) Rest peacfully Amico Bello Buddy 👼🏼.
                2) This weeks ebay auctions.

                Comment


                • #13
                  Mike suggestion is right on try to keep the soil as dry as possible,,,,, but there is one other thing you might be able to do how about taking the cuttings out of the infected medium rinsing them off and repotting them in a different soil thats not infested??? at this point I don't see you have much too loose
                  Wish List -

                  Comment


                  • #14
                    I use Mosqito Dunks for fungus gnat control grated and mixed into the top layers of potting mix or watered in for older plants. The BTi has to be ingested by the feeding larvae to be effective and also has to be reapplied at 10 to 14 day intervals to be most effective in killing the "worms" / larva and breaking the fungus gnat life cycle, https://www.ourfigs.com/forum/figs-h...on-and-control
                    .


                    Mosquito Dunks use encapsulated BTi and need moisture and time for it to be to released. The dose that I use is similar to that of the BTi concentration of Gnatrol, 0.2 oz, 1.2 tsp or 6 ml / Gallon of water for light to med infestation and 0.8 oz, 4.8 tsp or 24 ml / Gallon of water for heavy infestation, mixed 24 hrs before use.

                    Mosquito Dunks... ~ 10% BTi
                    Gnatrol... ~ 37% BTi
                    Microbe-Lift BMC... ~ 8% BTi

                    The mentioned biological products all use the same "Active Ingredient" BTi (Bacteria) at different concentrations, but Mosquito Dunks is encapsulated which results in an extremely long shelf life when stored dry at room temperatures. Good luck.
                    Last edited by AscPete; 12-12-2016, 09:54 AM.
                    Pete R - Hudson Valley, NY - zone 5b

                    Comment


                    • Fygmalion
                      Fygmalion commented
                      Editing a comment
                      Super info, Pete! Thank you...

                    • AscPete
                      AscPete commented
                      Editing a comment
                      You're welcome...

                      BTW, The mosquito dunk ratio results in an ~ 30% BTi application compared to Gnatrols 37% BTi when mixed at their recommended ratios of; 0.032 to 0.064 oz / gallon for light infestation and 0.13 to 0.26 oz / gallon for heavy infestation.

                  • #15
                    Gnatrol worked far better than dunks or granules for me. You can get it through eBay sellers who buy in bulk and break it down into much smaller containers.

                    Something like this.

                    http://www.ebay.com/itm/GNATROL-Orga...YA2-p9CvVO8htg

                    I bought this a couple years ago and still have plenty. You don't have to mix very much up. Just guestimate based off of the given ratios into the amount of water you will be using for your plants.

                    OT-Back to mosquito dunks, the granules do work well for mosquitoes though for fountains or whatever. However, if the water is big enough feeder goldfish or minnows do a knock out job with mosquitoes and you only have to apply them once a year.
                    Last edited by cis4elk; 12-12-2016, 11:11 AM.
                    Calvin, Wish list is to finish working on the new house, someday.
                    Bored? Grab a rake, paint roller, or a cordless drill and come over!

                    Comment


                    • #16
                      For fungus gnats, I first took the plants outside and doused them in neem, to include a soil drench

                      A few days later I did the same thing except with insecticidal soap.

                      Then I ground up those BTI mosquito dunks and put them on top of the soil. I guess it trickles down every time I water.

                      Anyway, that's worked pretty well for me, so just thought I'd share my experience.

                      Comment

                      Working...
                      X