Tree shaping question

[Evelynisgro]

I started talking about this under a thread on notching, thinking that notching was what I wanted to do with it. It turns out that that is not really where I want to go so I am starting a new thread so that I can stop hijacking the other one! My question is this:

The tree is greater than 3/4" caliper, lightly feathered on top, very stiff, close to four feet tall, and has little stubs at the bottom section that started to grow last season that are spaced well for a tree form tree. I sincerely doubt that I can bend it even over a long time as it is not anchored by its roots having been up-potted this year. Since I do not want to to keep the top growth in any circumstances, I do not like tall trees in containers, I would like the bottom stubs to grow out. This gives me two options, and I would like an opinion on which will get my little stubs turning into big branches faster.

Edit: The tree was flexible last week when I started considering this, but just checked now and it is starting to wake up from dormancy and could be bent if done with care.

Cut the top off now before the tree wakes up from dormancy. This way all the energy for the seasons flush of growth will go to the buds that already broke last season.

Air layer the top off. I am worried that I will waste time with this.

Keep in mind that I live in a very cold area with a very short growing season. That being said I need to use the growing days I do have wisely, I do not have 6 months or more, I am just shy of 120 days of good growing season on a good year. The goal is getting the tree to develop a nice shape faster than slower, not wasting time on branches I do not care for. The tree is going into its thirds season, and like was said above is very stiff and quite thick. It is in a 7 gallon pot this year with a very good root ball, I expect that it will be ready for a ten gallon next fall. Please do let me know you opinions and thank you for reading. I have attached a link shared by AscPete that details the tree form that I will be training this tree to. I prefer a bush, but part of the art of tree training is working with what has been provided. The tree was not grown by me, I purchased it from a collector downsizing last fall.

Edit: I just checked the tree to get a good picture of the size at the base. Last week it was stiff as a board, completely dormant. Right now the bud tips are all turning green and when I tried to bend it it does give a bit. So maybe bending to encourage buds on bottom to grow may be an option. ThaiFigs what is a good way to support the tree while bending? Bamboo stakes?

https://www.ourfigs.com/forum/figs-h...-espalier-form

[eboone]

I am not an expert and have admittedly not shaped enough of my own trees. But I think if you took the top 1/4 to 1/3 off, either pruned now or with an airlayer at the start of your growing season, all of the lower branches would be likely to grow a good bit.

[Evelynisgro]

Alright thank you!

[don_sanders]

I think the fastest would be to chop the top off at the highest point that you want the main stem and turn them into cuttings.

And bring it inside under lights for a couple months if that is an option.

It'll probably grow pretty fast once it wakes up.

[Evelynisgro]

I do have grow lights set up for my rooting cuttings and a bit of extra space. Since some of my trees are waking up too early they are going under lights as they wake up.

[jrdewhirst]

1. Do you want another tree (or two or three) of this variety? If so, cut to desired height and use the cutting(s). If not, cut then discard or give away the excess.

2. Follow Pete's guidance on pinching the leader, stripping top leaves, etc. You need to eliminate the apical dominance of the leader. If you do that (with repeated pinching of the dominant bud, as needed), the laterals will go crazy. Prune off laterals (and rub off buds) you don't want.

3. Repot the plant soon. Forget the "10g pot by next fall" goal. You need to some develop some ambition! With decent sun, fertility, and especially water, this plant could fill a 10g pot in under a month.

Look, I don't claim to be anything special when it comes to growing figs. The figs do the work. I'm just an enabler, probably no more skilled than the average forum member. But last year, I had roughly 4 dozen cuttings (total) from maybe 15-20 different varieties routinely grow from 8" sticks in January to trees 3-4' tall x 2-3' wide by July. Here's one example, a 1st year cutting of Emerald Strawberry in a 15g SIP in late July. Assuming that your plant's buds break in early to mid-May, it should look like this by the 4th of July.


a 1

[Evelynisgro]

Thank you for the comments Joe! I am very impressed with how large your trees grew for you! I will admit that I do not really know what to expect out of my trees in terms of growth. The first year I had no clue what I was doing, overwatering, poorly draining soil, they did not even go outside in the summer. The second season I put my trees outside but put them out too early and had some dieback and a few losses. They did not really kick into gear until August after their spring time shocks, the location in spring was also unfavorable and they grew more at the close of the summer where I live now than the previous two years combined.

I probably will not want another tree, but I may root the top cutting(s) to pass along.

Is it okay to repot midseason? I just repotted everything into a 5-1-1 mix because I get a lot of rain and I thought that I might give it a try this season. The tree was in a 3 gallon pot and a bit rootbound, but given the size I figured it would be okay to jump a few sizes. I was considering SIPS for next season, I wanted to this year but I just did not have the time and I didn't think it was worth it for less than a 10 gallon. I have seen a lot of people putting young cuttings into 5,10 and 15 gallon pots the first year, it is surprising how much they grow! I would be worried it could not fill the pot or could not find water in the sip, but that does not seem to be the case.

[jrdewhirst]

Sure, repot anytime you expect the plants to be growing. Just try not to damage the roots too much.

I see no reason not to put a cutting into the biggest pot it will ever inhabit, as soon as it is practical to do so. After all, people have no problem putting plants or seeds into the Earth, which is the biggest pot we have. And the fewer times you have to transplant a tree, the better.

I'm a believer in SIPs because otherwise it is very difficult to supply a potted tree with a steady supply of water. The tree doesn't have to find the water (though the roots will do that eventually); the water finds the tree by wicking through the planting medium. This is true for any good set-up with watering from the bottom.

Figs can, of course, tolerate dry conditions better than most plants. But that doesn't mean that drier is better. To the contrary, given good sunlight and adequate fertility, the amount of water supplied in spring and summer seems to control the extent of growth. So a well-watered fig will grow much better than a not-so-well-watered fig. I'd just cut back water in the month or so before dormancy; reduced water helps harden off the tree.

Tremendous attention is devoted to the risk of too much water. I don't want to dismiss the risk. But I think it leads novice growers to be too cautious, especially with well-rooted plants. I would recommended two safeguards: Use pots with drainage holes, and use a potting medium that drains well. Given these precautions, it is impossible to overwater. So have at it -- and enjoy the result.

[AscPete]

Its counter intuitive but if you want buds to break at most of the nodes simply remove all the existing buds with at least 2 nodes...

The existing buds on the small lower branches also have to be removed, back to at least 2 - 3 nodes from the main trunk. Its not recommended but I usually also seal the cut ends with a pruning sealer to slow desiccation and die-back and do the final 45 degree pruning cuts after the new branches have grown out in late spring.

Before...


and After...


This is a photo taken before the "final" pruning after the new branches have grown out. The final pruning cuts were made with a pruning saw, note the sealed ends and die-back which were later removed with a 45 degree cut.


You could also wait to air layer off the top half, but it may delay growth of the new branches especially if the top air layer is not fully girdled. Good Luck.

And another "re-trained" tree...

[AscPete]

I would remove the stub back to one (1) intact node from the main trunk then seal to prevent desiccation, cutting just below the node to be removed leaving as much of the "inter-node" section intact on the tree (for die-back). In your 4th photo in the OP it appears that the stub has at least 3 visible nodes.

It would be optimal to prune / remove at least the tip and 2 nodes, leaving 2 intact nodes if possible, the 2nd intact node is for insurance.

[Evelynisgro]

Alright, I will do that! Thank you so much for taking the time to teach me about this and for having patience with me. It is a learning process and I have not done a lot of pruning on my figs yet. Given how many I have I will become quite proficient before long I suspect. I pinched the buds on a lot of my trees last fall before dormancy and the ones that woke up already have produced many buds as you mentioned. I have been making sure to rub off the ones growing in the wrong direction or badly spaced before they get growing.

[AscPete]

Although many members practice "Pinching" I prefer to Stake and Prune to establish main, scaffolds then fruiting branches. Pinching has its use in warmer regions with longer growing seasons, IMO its only useful for fruit development on fruiting branches in colder regions.

https://www.ourfigs.com/forum/figs-home/17606-pinching-question-for-a-young-tree

[Harborseal]

If you girdle the stem where you want the top to be and air layer the top you'll get everything you want. You'll have to fertilize it as soon as it starts waking up and do so continually if your season is short.

[Harborseal]

All the other ways will work as well. This is just another option.

[Evelynisgro]

Thank you for the recommendation. I am leaning toward cutting it back I think, but I may play around with that in the future.

[wellingtonbill]

Super thread, thanks to all of you!

[ThaiFigs]

There are 4 ways to remove apical dominance so buds can grow.

1 As AscPete has explained, removing existing growing tips by cutting or air layering,

2 girdling (either with a wire constictor or removing a ring of bark, or just notching), after which you may also air layer the top(s),

3 laying the branch horizontally, as in step over cordons,

4 or tying inverted J hooks (see photo).

All work equally well. Depends on what your ultimate goal is, which is the best for you. If you don't want to keep the top growth and it doesn't have full size leaves then cut it off and use the stored energy of the roots to grow the buds you want.

Later in the season J hooks can help drive bud growth via the sugars produced from top growth photosynthesis.

Air layers will need full size leaves to drive root growth, you'll need to wait for that before girdling. Not a good option for you based on what you wrote.

Notching is most useful for filling in a missing branch or two on an otherwise well shaped tree/bush.

For your requirements, I'd take AscPete's advice and prune now.

[Evelynisgro]

Thank you for further detailing shaping methods for me and other readers. I found it quite interesting. I keep thinking about your concrete planters! Are they well rings for spring fed wells?

[ThaiFigs]

They are short culvert sections which are often stacked and parged with cement on the inside to form water storage tanks, or buried in stacks as septic tanks, or used individually as planters, especially for citrus trees. And yes, I've seen them used in wells also.

Mine also have a large plastic bowl in the bottom center filled with chopped coconut husk which acts as a water reservoir. That means roots which grow into the ground must do so in the space between the bowl and cement ring.

While heavy, the rings can be lifted by one person when empty. So with a crowbar I'll be able to raise the rings and rest them on concrete cinder blocks when it comes time to root prune.

[Evelynisgro]

Just an update. It's been about 3 weeks since I cut the tree back and pruned the stubs following AscPete's advice. I was a little concerned by the lack of new buds but I am pleased to report that they began forming today. Some along the trunk and at each if the stubs. So in a week or two we should have buds breaking and new branch development! Exciting stuff. I was a little concerned because it is rather drastic, but from all I've read for any fruit tree species on retraining it is always drastic.

[ThaiFigs]

What doesn't kill them makes em stronger. Glad it's working for you.

[ThaiFigs]

J-Hook update...

[Evelynisgro]

So it's finally budding out again, in full force now. I expect to see leaves pushing in the next week or so. Looks like there will be plenty of options to work with. Thanks again for all the advice.