Got a new one for you guys. I think this will really be a help to the community.
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Awesome video Ross, as usual. Packed with great info and awesome footage
now we need another great auction for a one off Team Hershell grafting knife. I think after all the grafts I did last year and plan to do this year, I would die for a proper knife and sheath. Maybe Mr DBJohnson who is a master Leatherman might be able to work on a grafting knife sheath......Just a thought
My birthday is next month and I need to tell my wife what to get, grafting knife or custom wooden garden sign....May the Figs be with you!
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Thanks for posting, Ross. I enjoyed the video.Cheryl (f/k/a VeryNew2Figs) Zone 5a/6a
What I'm growing: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets...it?usp=sharing
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Great video, Ross. By the way, I am into citrus in a big way and your citrus video is right on!Worcester, Massachusetts, Zone 6a - In containers 1 gal - 15 gal. Wish list: Dore' de Porquerolles
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I was wondering if anyone had any experience with this type of grafting tool? If it actually works, it seems like it would make grafting pretty easy for those with little to no experience (me)
The only possible drawback I can think of is that, if both rootstock and scion are not really close to the same diameter, the cambium layers might not line up...
Guildwood Village - Toronto, Canada - Zone 6
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I'm beginning to understand why my father kept the grafting knives passed to him by his grandfather... Maybe sometimes you can't really build a better mousetrap...
So I'm curious...Commercial nurseries....Like large scale fruit growers. Are they out there with knives or is there a better machine for this? If not that you're talking about something somewhat time consuming that requires some skill to do, no?
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From what I know of apple grafting, when the diameter gets large and you are top working a branch you can put two scions in the cleft, that way one is sure to take and the split calouses over faster. If they both grow you cut the spare scion after the calous is healed. For large diameter trunks where you are cutting it to a stump you can use a bark graft as well as a cleft graft. I have seen grafts with 4 scions put in a 3"+ bark graft.
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Thanks. I'm guessing it one of those things where different grafts work best in specific situations. When I was in Italy last, my family lost a bunch of olive trees due to some pest. The bases were still good so they had a bunch of stumps, each with 2 or 3 cleft grafts sticking out.... That seems to make sense. I'd imagine a bud graft is a good way to have a multi fruit tree. I've never grafted before but plan to try it this year. It's a whole new arena for me. That's not a super expensive tool so I may try it out....Last edited by TorontoJoe; 03-13-2017, 06:07 PM.Guildwood Village - Toronto, Canada - Zone 6
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I also enjoyed the video. Thanks for making it Ross.
I also plan to make a couple of multi-graft trees. The reason I haven’t been more ambitious with fig grafting is due to the possibility of combining different types of mosaic viruses in the same tree. If memory serves there are half a dozen or so types of fig mosaic viruses. Most fig varieties have at least one of these types though some claim there are varieties that are virus free. The only way to know for sure is to use molecular biology techniques – a lack of symptoms would not prove the variety is virus free. Anyway there is reason to believe that if you combine different types into one tree via grafting you might have an additive (or possibly even synergistic) effect of fig mosaic disease symptoms. Supposedly this is why many of the UCD varieties have such pronounced disease symptoms. On the other hand, the frankenfig tree in Louisiana has combined many different varieties and it seems to grow fine. It probably helps that it isn’t subject to cold winters. I would be interested to reports from others on what can happen with grafting when it comes to mosaic diseases. I’m not saying don’t graft but I just want to point out there could be a negative consequence.
Steve
D-i-c-k-e-r-s-o-n, MD; zone 7a
WL: Castillon, Fort Mill Dark, White Baca
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ross Do you think grafting to a cold hardy root stalk would change the cold hardiness of the fig?
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