Hardy fig planting plans

[Kelby]

I've been assembling my list of figs to plant in ground here in chilly zone 6b. I've selected these varieties based on reports of their hardiness, ability to fruit after ground kill, and productivity.

Definites (if I root them all):
Takoma Violet
Adriatic JH
Malta Black
Improved Celeste
Florea
Ronde de Bordeaux
Sal's
Bari
Nero600m

Considering:
Longue d'Aout
Binello
MBvs
Lyndhurst White
LaRadek's English BT
Black Bethlehem

I'm looking at also growing a handful in pots for breba production:
Atreano (breba and main)
Lattarula (breba and main)
Sweet George (breba and main)
Nexoe (breba? and main)
Desert King
Filacciano Bianco
and some other San Pedro types.

Any input? I've wound up with a lot of dark figs, I think I want to look into getting some more good light varieties like Vasilika Sika, Cdd Blanc, Green Ischia, or Brooklyn White.

Unfortunately I only have good, sunny space for 10-15 varieties. And I don't have an interest in more than a handful of potted figs. Basically, I want lots of figs with as little work as possible.

[COGardener]

My Sweet George is extremely tasty and that was ripened inside. I've read that green ischia is very cold hardy and a very tasty fig.

When you say improved Celeste, which one? I've heard of Floreas legendary cold hardiness which is why I'm getting one from Wills when they are ready to go.

I'm still to new to figs figs to be much help, but I'm learning.

[Kelby]

Improved Celeste not O'Rourke...hope that helps!

[COGardener]

Like LSU improved Celeste? I got one from JF&E for X-Mas last year, I sure hope to get figs this year. Heck, i hope to get and figs from any of my trees this year! !!

[cis4elk]

Scott, the Improved Celeste you hope yours is will have 1&3 lobe leaves only. It has good breba crop and doesn't drop figs. The fruit is about 1/3 bigger than regular Celeste as well with good flavor. Herman coined the name Improved Celeste O'Rourke Not.

[dobemom]

I hope we both get figs this year!

[Kelby]

Like LSU improved Celeste? I got one from JF&E for X-Mas last year, I sure hope to get figs this year. Heck, i hope to get and figs from any of my trees this year! !!

Should be the one, yes. According to my notes Improved Celeste should have leaves with 1-3 lobes,occasionally 3 lobes and thumbs. I think O'rourke has 3-5 lobes. One of the earliest to ripen after Florea. I'm currently trying to root Imp Celeste now, fingers crossed.

[COGardener]

Mine is breaking dormancy already I'll let you know as soon as the leaves are fully formed.

[kubota1]

Kelby, good luck with your in ground trees. I've been wondering if it's worth the hassle. I have 12 of them in ground and they usually all die to the ground. Last year I had an eight year old tree die to the ground. It was a nice looking tree. Every spring it drives me nuts when I unwrap my trees and they are dead or chewed up.
For what it's worth, I have Florea, MBvs, Takoma Violet, and a bunch of unk. Mt Aetna types, and a few others. The only ones that don't die to the ground are the ones that get about a three ft pile of mulch and wrapped.

[Kelby]

I hear you Art. I've got some in the ground protected my lazy way (dumped a ton mulch on them). We'll see how they look come spring, especially after this week. I may have to modify my plan, who knows.

[FMD]

Kelby, here's what survived in my zone 8b open orchard this winter...

MBVS
Vista
HC
Bethlehem Black
Gino's Black
LSU Gold
Alma
San Donato
NJ Red
Petit Negri
Sals Corleone
VDB
Melanzana
Feng Huang
Conadria

These did not....
RDB
Malta Black
Niagara Black
KB
Etc
Etc
Etc

[Rewton]

Frank, you already know the RDB, Malta Black etc didn't make it? Did they get hit by a cold snap before they were really dormant? My condolences!

[FMD]

The freezes started early this year, and the list of dead trees is definite. With a few more deep freezes coming, the list could grow.

[Kelby]

Thanks Frank! I'm surprised some of those died. I've been modeling my decisions a lot on herman2's posts since he's in the zone as me. RdB and Malta Black are 2 of his most recommended.

[kubota1]

One other deciding factor is, last year I probably picked about a dozen figs from my in ground trees and more than 2000 from my potted trees.

[Kelby]

One other deciding factor is, last year I probably picked about a dozen figs from my in ground trees and more than 2000 from my potted trees.

As a counterpoint, the year before the polar vortex a local fig friend got 80 lbs off his never protected Sal's GS. Itd ied back hard then, not sure what he got last year.

I guess it all depends, but I'll be hoping for mild winters!

[COGardener]

As I am gathering information for keeping my collection happy and healthy, I'm raising an eye brow at figs dieing on Frank in Zone 8b. I'm zone 5, maybe 5b on a good year, I was thinking about putting a couple trees inground this year. ... with very heavy winter protection. I may be rethinking that now, and wait till I move and can build a proper green house. Even then I may keep them in pots in the event of an emergency.

[AscPete]

Kelby,
Thanks for calling them "Hardy" and not "Cold Hardy".
When I discuss "cold hardy figs" I usually start with the disclaimer that "figs are indigenous to an arid semi tropical region which is a Zone 9 -10 minimum.
The hardy and healthy cultivars can withstand some extended periods of cold temperature below 20 * F but they still suffer die back without winter protection.

I plan on planting most of my fig trees in ground, but I will be growing them as easily protected Step-over Espaliers and not in the standard pruned Bush Form.
By protecting the main scaffold branches, the yearly fruiting branches produce figs earlier than if they had died back and started from the soil line.

In answer to your question, one group of light figs that has proven to be Hardy across the country is... Lattarula, Italian Honey, Oregon Prolific, St. Anthony, etc. Good Luck.

[Kelby]

Thanks Pete, I have called then 'cold hardy' in the past. Perhaps 'Hardier' is the best descriptor.

Not sure if you saw my posts last year, but I've been planting mine in 'wells' with rock walls. I filled those with mulch with the idea to at least protect the trunk. Might not work, but in my head it seems like it'll be ok.

I'm going to try Lattarula in a pot for now since the breba is supposed to be pretty good.

[FMD]

The big problem with the North Florida winters is NOT exceedingly low temperatures (mid 20's is pretty mild compared to what is happening up north).
No, what actually kills trees here is the cycling of long mild periods in the 60's and 70's with the short timed freezes. The warm weather softens the bark, the sap starts to flow, the buds emerge and then---BAM!!
Still, even under this perfect storm scenario, it is good to know that there are cultivars that survive. I believe that certain varieties survive, not because of cold hardiness, but because they have a built in delay in responding to the effects of the warm temperatures.

Frank

[JD]

Frank,

I agree. Let's define warm "softiness" as the ability of a cultivar to resist the effects of warm temperatures. I have read in a few places that it is also a combination of warmth and light (length of day/spring solstice) that triggers some.

My survivor list includes many of yours with a few additions and the caveat that most of my trees are potted

Adriatic JH
Aubique Petite
Battaglia Green
Camuna Small Black
Canone Dark
Celestes
Hunt
Kathleen Black
LSUs
Native Black
Negronne
RdB
Smith
Socorro Black
Unknown Stallion
Voiture #217

The die back/dead list includes some of the more prized figs that just have not done well for me

Black Madeira
Bordisotts
CdDs
Rimadas
Natalina
Rmali

Jimmie

[AscPete]

Kelby,
I read your post last year. The rocks would help as windbreaks in winter and as "solar collectors / reflector" in summer.
The trees that have been planted near buildings and survive decades without die back in colder zone benefit from the radiant heat from these structures.
Those next to larger free standing stone wall benefit from the radiant heat from the ground.

Frank,
I realize that it may not be practical in your case, but some winter protection would help in your situation.
If the trees were covered, the constant cooler soil temperature would help to moderate temperatures.

[jkuo]

Kelby, I can probably hook you up with Lyndhurst White, MBVS, and Stella if you want to give those a shot. Assuming my rooting luck holds, I should have extras.

[Kelby]

Thank Johnny, I may take you up on the Stella. I have or am rooting the other two. If I recall you're in Lancaster, do you know Bill yet?

[jkuo]

I've been in touch with Bill through F4F. I'm hoping to check out his forest of fig trees in the spring when our schedules hopefully mesh a little better.

[Kelby]

Bill's a good guy, he'll take care of you! I've down to his place a couple times for tastings, haha.

[christyandstella]

I wonder if you cut back and heavily mulch a fig if it would be any better protected than if it was not cut back. From what I understand, woody plant tissue can die due to being in proximity to other dying woody plant tissue. I would suggest cutting off nearly all woody limbs and stems longer than 12" and mailing them to me come fall. Then mulch heavily.

[jkuo]

lol! I like your solution!

[christyandstella]

(har har har)

[Bijan]

Kelby,

It sounds like we are in similar situations. I have been looking to compile (albeit with difficulty) is ripening order and ripening duration to maximize the season. Given the lack of space, I do not want all my trees ripening at the same time. The ripening order people list seem to vary greatly from year to year and location to location. I think knowing which varieties ripen at the same time and/or overlap is a great benefit.

I am growing several of the varieties you have listed and looking for a several more. Last year was my first season growing in Colorado and my trees were small. I do not think it was a good representation of what to expect in the future.

~james

[mountainfigs]

In my experience, the Mount Etnas and LSU Purple ripen more or less continuously until frost. I'll be watching other cultivars this summer that are said to behave similarly.

[AscPete]

James,
One of the reasons that I compiled the list and grew "Gateway figs" other than enjoying figs from all the flavor groups, was to also be able to enjoy figs over a longer ripening (harvest) duration... http://www.ourfigs.com/forum/figs-ho...tivars#post246 they may not be exotic, but they're hardy and productive.
Ripening Order: Italian Honey - Celeste - Hardy Chicago - Violette de Bordeaux - Conadria.

[COGardener]

Kelby,

If you are sure you want to try a Sweet George, hit me up. I will either pull an air layer or cuttings next season. The tree has been in my Garage Greenhouse all winter and has not been aloud to go dormant so no cuttings this year.

[Kelby]

Have one, thanks though buddy!

[COGardener]

No worries.

[fitzski]

Hi Kelby,

Would you mind attaching a link to your google docs spreadsheet so I don't have to search the other forum? Thanks

[Kelby]

It's on my signature

[fitzski]

Thanks, Kelby. I missed that.

[strudeldog]

These did not....
RDB
Malta Black
Niagara Black
KB
Etc
Etc
Etc

Frank,

So were these in ground and die completely or just to ground level? Established trees or young? With the exception of KB I was thinking/hoping the other 3 were generally reported fairly hardy. I am in agreement on the long periods of warm weather being my main issue. I lost more trees (not figs) spring of 2012 during one of the mildest winters I have had with a one night cold in mid 20s F after a few weeks of unseasonably warm weather in Feb/Mar. I lost Jujube below graft, which should be a couple zones more hardy and many other things that handle much colder. Regardless this spring is the big fig/pomegranate plant out. Pretty much everybody will have to prove themseleves.