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Has anyone hear of tis "notching"? I have a 3 ft very slender (pencil width) tree with nice big leafs at the top but nothing in between. Is there a way to start branch outs lower on trunk to thicken trunk?
Grazie
Zone 5 Chicago IL Wish list:
1) Rest peacfully Amico Bello Buddy 👼🏼.
2) Paratjal Rimada
There are discussions and postings regarding "notching" to induce branching.... on the Figs4Fun Forum. Sorry I can't provide a direct link but you can do a quick search.
You could also remove all terminal buds, especially the topmost bud(s), to induce lower and side branching. Each branch will thicken the portion of the trunk/stem that's below it, so the more low branches, the thicker the stem will get. All "sacrificial branches" to grow all over the stem, so trunk thickens more rapidly, and then prune them off when stem is as thick as you want. The more branches a tree grow, the thicker the trunk will have to grow to support all the resulting leaves, etc. Grow and chop, grow and chop. The process will take a few years, but the result is a tree with a thick trunk.
Pinching, pruning, and notching techniques, will get you where you want when it comes to training your fig tree. It won't happen overnight, and should be thought of as a work-in-progress.
Notching is a technique that is used to divert bud inhibiting hormones from reaching dormant buds. Its used most often in apple trees. Its not really necessary for fig trees, but can easily be done with a hacksaw blade, the Bark and Cambium layer is gently "sawed" the notch is created by the saw kerf. The "above bud notch" is the method that can be used with fig trees. The attached diagram is for apple trees.
Simply pruning off the top will remove the hormones that are produced in the growing tip and allow the dormant buds at the nodes below to start growing. The top could also be air layered, but will still produce bud inhibiting hormones (unless its girdled) until its separated. The desired tree height will determine the height of the pruning cut, http://www.ourfigs.com/forum/figs-ho...form#post11735 . Good Luck
I like tis idea of air layer. So girdle all around the tree and apply root hoelremone then smag miss and wrap in plastic air tight? How far down from top of tree and will it make fig tis year?
Zone 5 Chicago IL Wish list:
1) Rest peacfully Amico Bello Buddy 👼🏼.
2) Paratjal Rimada
If the main stem caliper is only "pencil" thin IMO, you should just tie it to a 4' or 5' stake and let it grow as a single stem tree until the caliper is at least 3/4" before pruning or air layering the top. When the main stem caliper is 3/4" - 1" the resulting branches will develop quickly and produce figs if pruned at the start of the season.
Ahaha! Dark man you sound like dictator of fig "Off With Its Head"! Thanks god I didn't have a lion to feed the head too! I think I will wait one more season to behead tis tree. Only because is young and I would love to see a fig on it first
Zone 5 Chicago IL Wish list:
1) Rest peacfully Amico Bello Buddy 👼🏼.
2) Paratjal Rimada
Forgive me but I go back to February post from AscPete about training and pruning fig tree. Very nice information but I not understand what
"Rubbing it out" means... Can someone define please?
Zone 5 Chicago IL Wish list:
1) Rest peacfully Amico Bello Buddy 👼🏼.
2) Paratjal Rimada
A- "Rubbing out"....the act/process of using the tip of your thumb to gently push/"rub" off a developing bud, or buds, BEFORE they start growing into small branches, fruit, etc. Think of "rubbing out" as pruning.... while very young branches are still in the undeveloped, bud stage.
B- Here in Da-Bronx,NYC, "rubbing out" has a very different meaning. : )))))
It removes unwanted branches or figs while they are still buds, before they develop. Branches that are in the wrong location and figs that develop late in the season and would not ripen before frost. http://www.ourfigs.com/filedata/fetc...4&d=1424378900 shows a simplified pruning diagram.
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