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  • Advice Needed: Spider Mite leaf drop

    My trip to Italy was not without consequences. Spider mites attacked my Panachee in the greenhouse and no one was around to take action or notice. Leaves are dropping daily. And the fruit is turning brown. Is this a normal consequence of spider mites? Will it be fatal for the tree? It is under control now. Comments appreciated.
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    Rafael
    Zone 10b, Miami, FL

  • #2
    had very much the same condition hit me earlier this year...after you've got the mites under control....the tree will decide what stays and what goes. stripping some of the worst damage may aid in removing any unhatched eggs or larvae from the picture....if you're experiencing higher humidities than normal...maybe a shot of potassium bi carbonate to arrest any fungal damage to already damaged leaves...in a weakened state they are subject to any and all deviants.

    maintaining control over those dreaded little critters is important..retain your vigilance....they have a way of reappearing when you least expect them...unwanted guests, putting it mildly....repeated sprays to handle hatching eggs and developing larvae is critical to success
    Ross B. Santa Rosa Calif zone 9b, wish list: CdD Blanc, Igo, Palmata, Sucrette, Morroco, Galicia Negra

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    • #3
      Spider mites pierce cells and suck sap, once the mites are under control the cell failure may take quite a few days to be apparent.
      Continued browning and desiccation is enevitable and to be expected.

      I agree with stripping discolored foliage, it not only removes the chance of re infection it will also make you feel better.

      spider mites like it dry and hot. Spray with water slows there spread greatly

      Figster
      Ian

      Really happy with what I have.

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      • #4
        The tree wont die and with any luck you wont lose fruit. I'm sure the tree would appreciate some fertilizer since it will want to push a bunch of new leaves.
        Bob C. KC, MO Zone 6a. Wanted: Martineca Rimada, Galicia Negra, Fioroni Ruvo, De La Reina - Pons, Tauro, BFF, Sefrawi, Sbayi, Mavra Sika , Fillaciano Bianco, Corynth, Souadi, Acciano Purple, LSU Tiger, LSU Red, Cajun Gold, BB-10 any great tasting fig

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        • #5
          Dear community, I have had a surprise and devastating mites attack to my O'rourke and Negronne. I am using Natria. What is the most effective treatment against mites? I am in PA.
          You may only view thumbnails in this gallery. This gallery has 3 photos.

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          • fruitnut
            fruitnut commented
            Editing a comment
            I'm not convinced that yours is spider mites. Are you sure? Can you see the webbing and the mites?

        • #6
          To be hones I see no webbing, i did not know they make webs. It all start with individual cells turning brown, after that entire spots, followed by yellowing. I have compared pics and I am pretty convinced. I would like to know if anybody can recommend something that works to stop this. It started with one tree and it is moving to the adjacent ones starting on the leaf tips.

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          • #7
            Those big spots aren't spider mites. If you have a hand magnifying lens you should be able to see the mites mostly on the lower leaf surface. If you have about 15x lens you can see the two spots on two spotted spider mites. Controls are water spray, summer oil, and the big guns like Forbid.

            https://search.domyown.com/search?w=spider%20mites
            Alpine, Texas 4500ft elevation Zone 7
            http://growingfruit.org/

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            • #8
              Thank you very much.

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              • #9
                Spider mites are a scourge for sure. They are in fact very hard to see and will most typically only be seen on the underside of a leaf with a 10X or stronger lens. You can however see the egg casings which are typically deposited along the veins on the underside of a leaf. The casings resemble bright white dots about the size of head of a pin. Fresh ones almost look like a tiny drop of saliva.

                I have unfotunately had several battles with them when they hitch hiked into my fig world aboard newly acquired plants THE ONE AND ONLY sure fire killer is FORBID 4 F. It is VERY expensive but it kills them DEAD. The spray will become absorbed into the plant and becomes "transvenous" and will provide protection for I think up to 45 days. The product kills both adults and eggs but you should spray a second time say 3 days or so after the first round to make sure all hatchlings are killed

                When you spray you need to make sure you spray the underside of EACH AND EVERY leaf as well as all the wood and buds.

                I know some members are concerned about the environmental impact of this super effective product but if you carefully do your research, (read what the state of California has to say) you can make your own decision.

                Good luck getting rid of the nasty S O B's

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