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  • Can I use the same method of rooting old wood cuttings with fresh cuttings?

    I started buying some cuttings this month and few types are fresh cuttings all green. Can I expect the same results with Damp Coir as I get with Dormant cuttings? Or should I just use some Clonex and cup them?
    Zone 6a Orange County NY

  • #2
    I root my fresh cuttings the same way I root my dormant cuttings which is in damp spahgnum moss with good results. I've tried clonex a couple times but I have just as good of luck with out it. I noticed that the fresh cuttings usually root faster then dormant cuttings
    Ryan- CenLa, zone 8a/b

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    • #3
      I'm trying some in water with floralicous plus now to see what happens. I left one small leaf on. Looks like initials might be forming.

      Also have some tips in moist mix.
      Last edited by don_sanders; 07-24-2015, 09:26 PM.
      Don - OH Zone 6a Wish list: Zaffiro, Moro de Caneva, Nerucciolo d'Elba, Bordissot Blanca Negra, Rubado

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      • #4
        I wish I knew that I should have left one of the leaves on.. I bought some Lyndhurst White and Sal's EL cuttings and one had a small leaf on it and I took it off. I treat every cutting like its my last because I want a good start by the time next season comes.
        Zone 6a Orange County NY

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        • #5
          I've had very good success (better than with dormant cuttings) rooting them the same way: bleach/disinfect, let dry, dip ends in Paraffin wax, wrap the exposed part of the cutting in Parafilm, and set up in humidified cups of barely damp ProMix HP or coir (either with a plastic bag or in a clear plastic bin).

          The only difference is that I first prep the cuttings by using clean scissors to snip off the leaves and any figlets leaving just one or two very small leaves. If there are only big leaves, I'll cut one remaining leaf to a smaller size. Those do seem to root faster than dormant cuttings for me.
          Sarah
          Bay Area, CA (zone: 9B)

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          • #6
            What kind of Paraffin Wax is used? And which type of Parafilm? I received a cupped cutting wrapped in it.

            Originally posted by sarahkt View Post
            I've had very good success (better than with dormant cuttings) rooting them the same way: bleach/disinfect, let dry, dip ends in Paraffin wax, wrap the exposed part of the cutting in Parafilm, and set up in humidified cups of barely damp ProMix HP or coir (either with a plastic bag or in a clear plastic bin)
            So if you dip both ends in Paraffin wax how do the roots get the moisture they need to form? Also instead of Parafilm why can't the whole cutting be dipped in the wax?
            Last edited by sal; 07-29-2015, 09:35 PM.
            Zone 6a Orange County NY

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            • Rafaelissimmo
              Rafaelissimmo commented
              Editing a comment
              I've never used wax myself. Someone sent me cuttings dipped in wax. I was able to root 2 out of 5, which is actually not bad, but the wax drove me bonkers. I felt the same as you-how are root initials supposed to form when the cutting bottom is covered in wax? It beats me how they rooted in spite of the wax.

            • Sarahkt
              Sarahkt commented
              Editing a comment
              Sorry, I meant I dipped the top ends and exposed cuts in wax. The bottom end is left unwaxed, or if it's been previously waxed for storage, I scrape it off the bottom end.

              You could probably dip the whole top portion in wax if you wanted to. It doesn't inhibit the shoot production as the buds push through it, but it may inhibit the roots so I wouldn't dip the entire thing in wax/Parafilm. I just find it easier and less messy (and quicker to remove if I overdo it) to use clear Parafilm. I use this: http://www.amazon.com/Parafilm-Roll-.../dp/B005KDF3X6.

              The Paraffin I use is melted Paraffin wax off a large brick. I melt a corner over a lit candle and quickly rub into the cut ends before the wax can resolidify. Once or twice in a hurry I've even used melted candle wax from a candle that had been lit for a few minutes. Not sure if that's prescribed but it worked just fine.

          • #7
            The wax on top helps prevent dry out. It's hard enough to seal air tightly but weak enough new growth will break right thru wax. No problemo.

            Don if or when you get root. Be very very careful potting up. The root made in water are much more delicates than roots in moss. Just breathe on them Wrong way they will fall off.
            Zone 5 Chicago IL Wish list:
            1) Rest peacfully Amico Bello Buddy 👼🏼.
            2) This weeks ebay auctions.

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            • #8
              I'm going to try to use paraffin just on the tops or most it of minus the bottom
              Zone 6a Orange County NY

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              • #9
                I always cut off a very small piece of the end going into rooting media.
                This leaves a clean cut end on my cutting to dip into rooting hormone.

                Doug

                edit: I have used my 3 cup rooting method on super green cuttings with good success.
                http://www.ourfigs.com/forum/figs-ho...rooting-method
                Last edited by SCfigFanatic; 07-31-2015, 11:47 AM.

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                • rayrose
                  rayrose commented
                  Editing a comment
                  Doug,
                  How much of the cutting do you dip into the clonex?

              • #10
                I use a small paint brush and paint everything that goes below soil line.

                Doug

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                • rayrose
                  rayrose commented
                  Editing a comment
                  Do you do this with all cuttings or just the green ones.

              • #11
                I use clonex on green or hardwood cuttings.
                Some say you do not need it, but I think it helps.

                Doug

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                • rayrose
                  rayrose commented
                  Editing a comment
                  Thanks, I'll be using your 3 cup method for the first time this
                  winter and I want to make sure I do it right.

              • #12
                Good deal, I just put 3 texas blue giant cuttings in cups.
                I have them in my south facing window.
                Should have roots in a few weeks.

                Doug

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                • #13
                  This is how I root my cuttings. I can get roots within 1 week with hardwood cuttings. I find greenwood and tip cuttings tends to dry up or mold much faster. The catch 22 with these is that you have to keep them at a perfect humidity to root. Too much or too little spells quick disaster. Hard wood tends to be more forgiving and programmed to root. The more nodes there are the faster it will root. The tip and greenwood is programmed to leaf and takes forever to figure out that it needs to push out roots to survive. From experience it takes 4 times longer.

                  Ben B.
                  Seattle, WA

                  http://seattlegardenfruit.blogspot.com/

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                  • #14
                    I've also noticed that there's no difference in rooting time between dormant and summer and cuttings. I've seen the same results with both. From experience, it's the part of the branch that determines how quickly cuttings roots.
                    Ben B.
                    Seattle, WA

                    http://seattlegardenfruit.blogspot.com/

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                    • #15
                      These are great posts. Thank you guys. That is why this forum is the best. Everybody shares and cares and no judgements. I learn every day and wish I had this forum a year ago. I would have been so far ahead. Ahh.....grow little figgys.

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                      • #16
                        Originally posted by SCfigFanatic View Post
                        Good deal, I just put 3 texas blue giant cuttings in cups.
                        I have them in my south facing window.
                        Should have roots in a few weeks.

                        Doug
                        I've read through your rooting method. Is it a spring/summertime rooting method, or does it work year round? Wouldn't windows be cooler than a central part of the home in winter? Or, do the windows work by providing light for when the leaves appear?
                        Last edited by Visceral; 08-10-2015, 01:29 PM.
                        Houston, TX Zone 9a

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                        • #17
                          I put my cuttings in a southern facing window.
                          I do it normally from december on just to kill boredom.
                          No extra heat needed, the top cups will show humidity just sitting in the window.


                          The texas blue giant rooted in 7 days. This is 3 for 3 in a week.
                          One I already planted in ground in my orchard and its growing.

                          Doug

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