• Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Grow lights on Amazon

    Are these good for growing fig cuttings? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    WV Harpers Ferry Zone 6b

  • #2
    I think it would be fine for smaller cuttings. I have most of mine under shop lights with 6500K 48" T8 LEDs. I also just added a light I am loving for a larger area of figs where I just want to prevent legginess: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    For growing and ripening figs, I have succeeded with a few small trees under one https://www.mars-hydro.com/led-grow-...arden-for-sale

    I have a few other smaller Mars Hydro, Viparspectra, etc. lights. None are real expensive lights, but they aren't the bottom Chinese non-UL tested items either.
    N. GA 7B
    UPDATED! Wish list: CDD Mutante, BFF, SE tolerant stone fruit, blackberries...


    • WVMJack
      WVMJack commented
      Editing a comment
      Thanks, we didnt see those for sale when we were getting lights.

  • #3
    Personally, I am not a fan of the pink/purple "Alien light". No fun to work under. You will want suplimental light for work. I like just being able to hangout under the bright white light working on cuttings and checking plants. It's light therapy during the winter months. Will it work, sure. Would not be my choice. I would buy something bigger if you have space. You will always wish for more space. You can start peppers over winter. So many more varieties than nurseries carry.

    I have something like Backwoods. T5s. I replace the T5 bulbs every 2 years. I run them all year. I use one of those bike pulley systems for the garage to raise/lower height. The lights on Amazon always have links to pulley systems that work independently. PITA to adjust one at a time and they make an annoying cranking sound. Bike pulley system is silent and one line up/down.
    Last edited by Heavy2600; 01-15-2019, 08:04 PM.
    Volcano, 7a VA


    • WVMJack
      WVMJack commented
      Editing a comment
      Starting peppers and tomatoes are also high on our list, I get kicked out of the growing room in the house when peppers get started and move out to my shop which is cooler but by that time I plan on having them be bigger.

  • #4
    Only question I would have is what happens if it quits working? Some of those if one LED goes out, they all do...and it's not like they're easily replaceable like a T5 fixture.


    • dimitri_7a
      dimitri_7a commented
      Editing a comment
      With proper cooling and reasonable quality manufacturing LED failure rates are very very low. When was the last time an indicator light (power button light?) went out on one of your electronic devices? They even make Chip on Board (COB) LEDs which are arrays of dozens of LEDs combined into one light.

    • Foodtreefield
      Foodtreefield commented
      Editing a comment
      Bought some of the cheap Chinese LEDs last fall (5) and by spring only two of them were operational. (The UFO style). Lesson learned. The better ones seem to be the cobb type. Lasted over a year so far.

  • #5
    To piggy back on that, when I replace the T5 bulbs from the grow light, I rotate them into service as shop lights. They do gradually lose brightness.
    Volcano, 7a VA


    • #6
      LED technology has gotten crazy cheap and efficient in the last couple years. You can get a ready to use fixture for as little as $75 shipped (https://www.amazon.com/VIPARSPECTRA-.../dp/B01B4GQ6MO) or $100 if you prefer more natural looking light (https://horticulturelightinggroup.com/products/hlg-65). Keep in mind these are very powerful lights that can be used to grow a respectably yielding tomato / pepper plant or provide enough coverage for 4-6 sqft of growing leafy greens / cuttings / seed starting - and unlike florescent bulbs you can hang them as high as 1-2' from the top of your plants versus a couple inches. Really though, LEDs have a lifespan of 5-10 years before they lose any significant amount of brightness/efficiency which is 2-3X longer than any fluorescent bulb and they are also 2X more efficient than T5s & T8s at producing light.


      • AscPete
        AscPete commented
        Editing a comment
        I agree.
        I've been using E26 base LED bulbs (DIY with outdoor string light fixtures) for grow lights and they are comparable to the HLG LEDs with similar CCT...

        Migro LED has produced several comparison videos of different technologies, CMH/LEC has proven to be very efficient and economical, a close second behind properly designed LEDs like the HLGs; https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCSZ...xS54qdA/videos

        My preference is standard Household E26 base LED Bulbs that can provide more that adequate amounts of light at higher efficiency than several commercially available fixtures (~ 1.7 PPF/Watt), i.e.;
        7 - 100 Watt Equivalent A19 LED Bulbs
        10,850 Lumens, 5000K @ 91.0 watts (~ 157 PPF).

        Spectrum King MLH video; https://youtu.be/IjY2FuNNxKQ
        10,000 Lumens 5000K LED @ 101.0 watts (~ 145 PPF)

        HLG-65 video; https://youtu.be/aHFyCvoAIAA
        10,000 Lumens 5000K LED @ 65.0 watts (~ 145 PPF)

      • cepeders
        cepeders commented
        Editing a comment
        I second this. I have 3 4'X8' shelves now using $1 and $2 15 watt LED bulbs on the outdoor string lights. The plants are doing great.

        It is very economical and just as effective as my higher end grow lights for cuttings.

    • #7
      I plan on growing my cuttings indoor permanently in a shed or garage, what light should I use? I don't want to change out bulbs for different stages of growth, is there a light that does it all?
      San Jose CA, Zone 9b
      Wish list: CC, CLBC, MIB, Burgan UNK, Cali Candy, Brandon St Unk, Sangue Dolce, Calderona, Martinenca Rimada, Campaniere, Thermalito


      • #8
        Has anyone used the 4' LED T5 (5000 Kelvin) replacement bulbs in their T5 fluorescent fixtures? I assume they would work just as well as the Fluorescent T5 tubes and use half the power.
        Los Angeles / Zone 10b
        Wishlist: CdD Grise, Del Sen Jaume Gran, Lampeira Prusch, Planera, Calderona


        • AscPete
          AscPete commented
          Editing a comment
          Don't have any T5 fixtures, but have used 4000K and 5000K T8 LED tubes (Philips Instafit - 123 Lumens/W) in T8 shop lights for ~ 50% increase in light output and 1/2 the power use compared to the T8 florescent tubes in the same fixture (measured with Lux and Watt meters)...

        • bent
          bent commented
          Editing a comment
          Thank you! Yes, I could see how T8 LED replacement bulbs would make a lot of sense as well. I might do a little experimenting this winter; my current set-up is barely functional. I'm going to re-think my lighting.

      • #9
        I was looking at possibly grabbing these:

        Doesn't seem a bad deal. I only have a couple of bins of cuttings and I thought 2 lights @ 4,000 lmn each at 5000k would probably be sufficient. Give a couple extra light to you around the house.
        Growing Zone 6b, Central Kentucky.


        • Kevin912
          Kevin912 commented
          Editing a comment
          I'd say not what you're looking for.. it appears they have plastic covers around the light bulbs which prevent the light from reaching the canopy of your plants. 50 watts per square foot is ideal. There are much better options on Amazon for dedicated grow lights
          Last edited by Kevin912; 01-20-2020, 11:39 PM.

      • #10
        I've been happy with these so far
        Attached Files
        Savannah Ga zone 8b


        • #11
          I have been using the "alien" lights for two years and have nothing to complain about except the color. Mine are 1foot square $30 Amazon lights, 45w but probably draw light 18w. They are able to produce a better quality green plant growth than florescents and they can be far above the plants and remain effective.

          After rooting, I usually switch my cuttings to either a 250w or 400w HPS. This year I'm switching to dual 300w LED's. I expect good things. Setting them up right now.
          Brooklyn, Washington. zone 8b, rainy winter, mild arid summer
          Wishing for: Tashkent, LSU DC 4, 6, I-258/GN AF, De la Reina, Becane, Tx-BA1, Gris de St. Jean, Adam


          • #12
            I just bought and recieved the HLG 65 from amazon $99 on prime and WOW is it ever bright!!! I’m adding it to a few Feit eletric lights that I bought at Home Depot last season which allow you to toggle red, blue and white Options. I also have a strip of A19 to add additional light, but the HLG 65 is stupid bright and wonder if I’ll even need to run them. The design this minimalist and really appealing. 4000K, wish I would have started with these as opposed to the Home Depot lights I bought for almost as much ($65 each)
            Wish list. White Baca, Rigato de Salento PB, Iranian Candy, Nerucciolo D’Elba, Saint Martin, Burgan UNK, Green Michurinska


            • #13
              Had good success with cheap "alien" LEDs from amazon:


              Been going strong for 2 years with no problems. I run only maybe 3 months a year or so though.

              Zone 7A
              Wishlist: BFF, Burgan


              • #14
                As a big indoor grower of many types of plants, be weary of cheap LED grow lights, especially "blurples". LED tech has made leaps and bounds since the days of the "LED UFO" that was a big expensive dud in the medical marijuana grow scene (so much so that it tarnished the reputation of LED growlights for quite some time).

                I have used T5's, the BIG CFL's, HPS, Quantum Board LED, Blurple LED (a Viparspectra 300 that was on sale for Amazon Prime day for 50 bucks. its actual wattage output is closer to 120watt, but for the price it's a great little light for clones and such).

                In my main tent I run an Electric Sky ES300 on my high light side, and on the other side where my lower light plants reside, I use a couple T5's (planning to replace them for higher efficiency light soon) and the Viparspectra I mentioned. the low light side is powered by both low end lights, but for my intentions in using them, they're great.

                There's a new LED guy in town who has been causing a stir in the LED Grow-light scene with his very cheap (compared to the high end stuff) lights, which some claim are as good as one of the very top market leaders, HLG (Horticultural Lighting Group).

                This will grow full blown plants, not just seedlings, and is dimmable. I have heard many great things about them.

                Be careful about claims you hear about in the LED grow light adverts. When it comes to grow lights, pay attention to PAR moreso than lumens, and also remember color temp and spectrum of the light is very important. For example, if you were to start baby tomatoe plants under a light such as an HPS (which have low color temperatures), you would encounter a lot of stretching and get lanky plants.


                • AscPete
                  AscPete commented
                  Editing a comment
                  moonfruitgoblins ,

                  Standard Phosphor-Converted LEDs (current generation Samsung LM301's and Household Type LED's) have Spectrum, PAR and Efficiency that are equivalent or better than most "Grow Lights" and are only 8% - 10% less electrically efficient than current generation "Top End" Red / Blue LED "Grow Lights".

                  Academic Research has proven that;
                  2700K and 3000K LEDs are equivalent or better than HPS...
                  4000K LEDs are equivalent or better than CMH and CW Fluorescents.
                  5000K LEDs are equivalent or better than MH and Daylight Fluorescents.

                  Standard White LEDs are used in many commercial "Full Spectrum" LED grow lights...
                  e.g., https://hubbellcdn.com/brochure/hil_0401_cgs_ref_16.pdf

                • moonfruitgoblins
                  moonfruitgoblins commented
                  Editing a comment
                  AscPete. I have heard it's basically the overkill of the lumen output that makes the LED growlights work so well. But you need many many lumens to get this overkill in order for the LED to be effective if most of the wavelengths are unusable right? I know people have made their own growlights quite cheaplyfrom Samsung diodes bought on Alibaba, but they still use like 300 of them in the builds i've seen.

                • AscPete
                  AscPete commented
                  Editing a comment
                  moonfruitgoblins ,

                  All (100%) of the light produced by White LEDs is in the PAR (Photosynthetically Active Radiation = 400-700 nm, ~ +/- 95%) or PBAR spectrum (Photo-biologically Active Radiation ~ 300-800 nm, ~ +/- 5% above 700 nm)

                  Lumens or Lux directly equates to PAR, PPF or PPFD respectively for All Grow Light Sources...

                  For White Grow light sources (UL and or DLC Listed) Labeled Lumens and Digital Lux Meters can be used to measure and calculate PPF and PPFD, Red/Blue LED Grow Lights could also be calculated but it gets complicated because of the Custom Ratios of "Colors", its much easier to use an actual PAR Meter or Spectrometer to do actual measurements.

                  There are Lux / Lumens to PPF / PPFD conversion factors for all "White" Grow Light sources

                  For 2700K to 5000K Phosphor-Converted LEDs the conversion factor is 0.015 PPF/Lumen or 0.015 PPFD/Lux

                  The Actual LEDs (Light Emitting Diodes) can either be put close together in "COBs" or separated like the HLG boards, but are still currently the most electrically efficient light source. The HLG type lights have the added benefit of better footprint coverage and higher efficiency, at only 120 Lm/W output its better that the highest efficiency HPS HID Lamps..


              • #15

                The problem with the majority of "LED Grow Lights" available on *mazon is that they are mostly sold on "Marketing Hype". The lower to moderately priced red / Blue LEDs have poor efficiency and low outputs (efficacy measured at 0.9 - 1.5 PPF/W maximum), have little to no information on their actual coverage and PAR output. The White LEDs also have little available information, but at least they can be readily compared to easily measurable values (known or measured Lumens)... You can extrapolate (calculate) the outputs of most of these lights by multiplying the actual input watts by an efficacy factor. The integrated "LED Grow Light" fixtures with 3000K to 5000K LEDs are similar to (same as) Integrated LED Shop Lights or T8 Shop Light Fixtures with LED bulbs and often cost over 50% less than the same (similar) *mazon Grow lights. You should select LEDs with over 100 Lm/W for an efficacy of 1.5 PPF/W (100 Lm ~ 1.5 PPF for 2700K - 5000K LED)

                The linked fixtures have an input of 4000 Lm, 36 Watts with 1.66 PPF/W efficacy for a total calculated output of 59.7 PPF each which is equivalent to two (2) 2100 Lm, 18 Watt T8 LED tubes at 1.75 PPF/W each (or 63 PPF for 2 bulbs).

                For example these A19 Miracle LED Grow Bulbs on Sale for $15.00 each have similar (same) PAR Spectrum and PAR outputs to $1.00 5000K (9 Watt x 1.5 PPF/W = 13.5 PPF output) A19 Household LED bulbs available at many local stores, the Household LED bulbs have UL Listings and Warranties. BTW, You can even purchase 15 Watt LEDs Locally, with over 2 times the PAR output for only $1.00 each (15 watt x 1.7 PPF/W = 25.5 PPF).

                The linked fixtures have an input of 35 Watts with at most 1.5 PPF/W efficacy for a total calculated output of 52.5 PPF each which is less than two (2) 2100 Lm, 18 Watt T8 LED tubes at 1.75 PPF/W each (or 63 PPF for 2 bulbs)
                These GE LED Grow Light bulb has an efficacy of 1.8 PPF/W with an input of 9 Watts, 16 PPF total output...

                (PAR) ... Photosynthetically Active Radiation
                is the wavelengths of visible light between 400 and 700 nanometers (nm). This waveband correlates with the energy of photons that can stimulate photosynthesis in plants, frequencies outside of this range are less or not effective for photosynthesis. Phosphor type LEDs emit the majority (most) of their light in the PAR waveband, up to ~ 97%, the remainder is emitted as Far Red frequencies.

                (PPF) ... Photosynthetic Photon Flux
                is the total amount of PAR light emitted from a lamp, abbreviated as µmol•s-1 or µmol/s, (micromoles per second). This value is usually measured with expensive integrating spheres which captures essentially all photons emitted from a lamp (essentially correlating to Lumens). A heuristic for 2700K to 5000K LEDs is 100 Lm ~ 1.5 PPF

                (PPFD) ... Photosynthetic Photon Flux Density
                is the PPF incident upon a square meter (m2) abbreviated as µmol•m-2·s-1 or µmol/m2-s, (micromoles per square meter per second). the value refers to the intensity of PAR at a horizontal surface, which is usually measured at the top of a plant canopy (essentially correlating to Lux or Foot-Candles)

                (PPF/W or PPF/J) ... PAR Efficacy
                is the number of µmol•s-1 (micromoles per second) emitted per Watt or Joule input.

                (Lumens / Watt or Lm/W) ... Luminous Efficacy
                is the number of Lumens emitted per watt of energy. (One Lumen per square meter equals one Lux, and there are 10.76 Lux per foot-candle.) This value refers to the efficiency of a lamp at emitting light visible to people, but can be relevant for plant applications when comparing the energy efficiency (or calculated Par Efficiency) of white LED lamps. Higher Luminous efficacy usually equals higher PAR Efficacy.

                (CCT) ... Correlated Color Temperature
                is the color appearance of light emitted by a lamp, measured in degrees Kelvin (K). Lamps with a CCT below ~ 3,000 K are considered Warm (more red wavelengths / frequency) while those with a CCT above ~ 4000 K are considered Cool (more blue wavelengths / frequency). This metric is actually relevant for Phosphor-Converted type White LEDs and used in plant photo-biology applications for PAR calculations.

                (CRI) ... Color Rendering Index
                is how well a light source reveals the colors of various objects compared with the "highest" CRI value 100 of natural daylight, White LEDs can have values greater than 90 and most household bulbs are greater than 80 but lower CRI white LEDs have less "Green wavelengths" and may provide more PAR from the Blue Wavelengths with High CRI having more Red wavelengths, otherwise its not extremely relevant for plant growth.
                Pete R - Hudson Valley, NY - zone 5b


                • Ky_Fig
                  Ky_Fig commented
                  Editing a comment
                  Wow. Very informative response. Thank you

                • AscPete
                  AscPete commented
                  Editing a comment
                  You're welcome.
                  I'm attempting to help dispel some of the perpetuated myths about LED's