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  • figs and tropicals
    commented on 's reply
    I've come a long way, baby....I now have some of those...and bud grafted some more...ha, ha....

  • Evdurtschi
    commented on 's reply
    Young grafts and buds are highly susceptible to even light frost so I would definitely wait.

    I would also store the cuttings well and graft to a well rooted tree vs a cutting

  • Evdurtschi
    commented on 's reply
    I don't remove the buds yet. I remove them as they start to emerge to try and force all energy into the chip bud. I guess you could do it at first but I never have.

    It is pretty new to me. I actually first learned about it after watching one of Ben's videos. I would still say it is experimental because so little has been posted but the results were strong enough for me that I am doing it again this year.

  • Figbert
    replied
    EvdurtschiThe grafts still need to be protected from even light frosts, correct?

    I have backup cuttings taken in Nov - Jan that I'm planning to graft (or graft parts of, and then root the rest). I was planning on waiting until my in ground trees are past risk of frosts. That will probably be late Feb., which means another month of storage of the scion wood.

    Or I could take cuttings from the in ground trees (any size from 1" in diameter down to matching the diameter of the scion), and graft/root the pairs right now in DE with the rest of my cuttings.

    Any guess which route would be more successful?

    Thanks for bumping this thread!

    Leave a comment:


  • Rewton
    replied
    Eric, sorry if this has been covered elsewhere but I thought it would be good to include the information here too. So when you chip graft onto a cutting do you remove some of the existing buds on that that cutting at the same time? Or do you wait a while and remove them later if they green up instead of the graft bud greening up? Any other information to share that is specific to chip bud grafting to cuttings?

    Leave a comment:


  • Foodtreefield
    replied
    Thanks for reporting your good results. I was thinking of doing the bud removals but was very worried it would damage the cutting enough to inhibit rooting. It appears such is not the case. Very helpful. Thanks again.

    Leave a comment:


  • Evdurtschi
    replied
    Hello everyone. Someone recently asked about doing this so I thought that with many of you getting your cuttings last week or this week, I thought I would revive this as it worked quite well for me and a few others last year.

    Leave a comment:


  • SeattleFig
    replied
    Evdurtschi thsi is great info. I grafted a CdDB on an unrooted BT this year and have pleny of roots and the bud seems to have taken, but still too soon to tell.

    Leave a comment:


  • Evdurtschi
    commented on 's reply
    Great news! and congrats

  • T.Frank228
    replied
    Just wanted to jump on this older thread and say thank you for mentioning this. I had a few very fancy cuttings that were stalled. Inspired by this post I removed the below soil buds and grafted them, then put some rooting hormone on the budless node The previously stalled cuttings have rooted and are currently kicking butt. I'll probably use this method with fancy cuttings going forward

    Leave a comment:


  • KMH
    replied
    I've started to do the same.

    my first attempts were with buds from the top as in the photo but I've since been taking buds from the bottom.
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • angelad
    commented on 's reply
    Evdurtschi Thanks for the information. I didn't realize you could do that. For some reason, I was under the impression that you replace the old bud with the new one that you want to graft.

  • Dtownfigs
    replied
    Good job streching out that plant material. In retrospect, I feel like I could have done much more with the cuttings I had this winter. If we all figure out how to squeeze more out of the available cuttings, it should mean more plants for all!!!

    Leave a comment:


  • Johnson1
    replied
    Optisorb is the granular DE media product name.

    Leave a comment:


  • a.tibor
    replied
    Nice!

    Since you discussed this on the other thread I ve tried it with couple of cuttings too.

    Leave a comment:


  • blaze
    replied
    I asked the original question so thanks a lot for the answer with the visual!
    i have killed a lot of free cuttings from my original trees that are pretty big and gave a lot of practice wood. Although I got a little better with practice, I thought maybe I could hedge my bets with both methods and one stick since I did buy some. I did not buy any really expensive Scion this year but I did buy some. I have started the same bus plant after I asked the question. I really am enjoying grafting. I find that I feel like I have a little more control over the success. Thanks again

    Leave a comment:


  • Evdurtschi
    commented on 's reply
    That’s correct

  • Evdurtschi
    commented on 's reply
    That’s right. I’m using DE on all cuttings that are rare. It works very well

  • Fruitgrower
    replied
    This is a great tip for us all, thanks Eric, I will try this on a few of my cuttings! BNR is one of the coolest looking figs too, congrats!

    Leave a comment:


  • figs and tropicals
    replied
    Evdurtschi eric, what media are you rooting that cutting in...looks like the stuff Gina was talking about...that absorbing stuff that you get from the auto store...the name escapes me right now.

    Leave a comment:


  • figs and tropicals
    replied
    I haven't figured out what a BNR is...bordisotte negra rimada? or am I making that up...

    Leave a comment:


  • cepeders
    commented on 's reply
    Good to know. I have thought about doing the same thing. My chip budding still needs work. I am growing a lot of root stock this year so hopefully have more success than with unrooted cuttings.

    Cleft grafts have been working well on unrooted cuttings for me, but uses more wood obviously

  • Evdurtschi
    commented on 's reply
    That’s why I want to have an insurance plan. 😝

  • Evdurtschi
    commented on 's reply
    I place the bud between nodes. It’s smoother and easier to work with for me.
    I label the cup with what I’ve done. For example, BNR on HS

  • Evdurtschi
    commented on 's reply
    It hasn’t so far but I’ve only done this with 10 or so cuttings. I am very careful to remove as little as possible. As you can see with the bud that I removed above the soil line, I wrap those to protect them.
    I’m just making this up as I go but it seems to be working. :-)
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