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  • Rooting problem

    I started some cuttings for roots in mid August using plastic cup then in polybag as before and everything went out pretty good from the beginning till 10 days ago, I found the leaves suddenly withered as per images attached for reference even most cuttings are still having some roots . I moved them from outside greenhouse to indoor about 2 weeks ago. Did I do anything wrong to make the leaves withered. Why this happened ? Do you thing that the involved cuttings can be survived or not ? What should I do with them for now ?
    Attached Files

  • #2
    What was your rooting method and procedure?

    How often are they watered?
    How many holes are in the cup?

    Its possible that the roots may need both moisture and air.
    Also, leaves will wither if the ambient humidity changed drastically (from high to low) and the cuttings do not have enough root mass to support the leaves.

    If the roots are alive and the cutting is healthy on the bottom they should survive with up potting into a better mix, and fertilization. Good luck.
    Pete R - Hudson Valley, NY - zone 5b

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    • #3
      I have been using perlite + organic potting mix + water in a 16 oz plastic cup then place the cup and cutting in a polybag. Before I closed the polybag, I also sprayed some water to create more moisture (this could be a mistake to spray water inside of the polybag), In between I sprayed water inside of the polybag again just once. I drilled 6 holes near the bottom plus 2 holes in the bottom.
      Pls adv what fertilization will you suggest me to try with thanks.

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      • #4
        Just to recap...
        You started the rooting process in mid August.
        Using the direct plant method in cups, with a plastic bag as the humidity chamber or dome.
        The cuttings were then placed outdoors in a greenhouse until 2 weeks ago.

        Have the cuttings been growing for ~3 months without any added nutrients or regular watering?.
        When were they removed from the plastic bags / humidity chambers?
        What were the temperatures during this time period?

        The cups could use more holes, for 16 oz cups I place 5 holes on bottom with another 8 on the sides of each, all approx. 1/4" - 3/8". Attached photos are of the 16 oz cup with holes, cup holder/base and the opaque outer cup with 5 holes only in bottom. They're on top of the humidity chamber a 1020 seedling tray with 7" high dome, each tray hold 15 cups.
        Click image for larger version

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        If you have any water soluble fertilizers available they could probably use a dilute application to start, but it should be applied carefully so as not to water log the mix.

        The cuttings should have been taken through the rooting stages, http://www.ourfigs.com/forum/figs-ho...hy-s#post47422 quicker, which would probably have produced increased root and vegetative growth. Using the stages of development and progressing smoothly through each stage should reduce stress on both you and the plants.
        Last edited by AscPete; 11-22-2015, 09:50 AM. Reason: typo
        Pete R - Hudson Valley, NY - zone 5b

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        • #5
          Pacifica,

          I hate to say it and you won't want to hear it but it is dead If you pull it out of the cup I bet you will find that the roots are no longer connected to the stem or that the bark on the cutting where the roots are/were attached is rotten and will just slide off with a little push of your finger. It could have been too much water, could have been planted too deeply, too much humidity too long or any combination of those factors. Lack of air in the soil makes it much worse which is why Pete said you needed to add more holes.

          Cutting sales have ended for the season. Plant sales will start March 1 at 8 eastern time. If it is still too cold in your area I can hold your plants till a date of your choosing.

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          • #6
            Hi Pete : Thanks for your explanation which is very helpful for me to understand why I got this problem. For the first two to three weeks were very good with some new healthy leaves etc. I removed the plastic bay and placed in outdoor greenhouse for another 3 weeks, then the leaves started to show wither and buds turned out to become harder, so I removed them to indoor for another 2 weeks to see if better or, but unfortunately, no improvement and even worse as imaged shown above. Indoor temperature remain to 23C all day while outdoor greenhouse was 12C to 17C before

            Hi WillsC : I did pull out one cutting this morning (the one that did not have roots and leaf at all) and you are right that it did not come with any roots at all because too much moisture inside and lack of air etc and killed the cuttings. Do you think I can pull those cuttings out of the cups and follow Pete's suggestion to try again or considered as disaster and throw them away ? Tks to all ........

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            • #7
              I have tried to "save" cuttings that rotted at the base and have not had one make it yet, not saying it is impossible but unlikely. It seems when that happens the vigor in the plant is gone. The day the leaves start to wilt it is too late.....sorry hate giving bad news but that has been my experience. There is absolutely no harm in trying though.
              Cutting sales have ended for the season. Plant sales will start March 1 at 8 eastern time. If it is still too cold in your area I can hold your plants till a date of your choosing.

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              • #8
                Pacifica,
                Thanks for the reply.

                With temperature that low (12C) fig trees will actually stop growing, any lower and they may start going dormant.

                IMO, maintaining the temperatures between 22C and 26C for the first 30 to 60 days (2nd and 3rd stages) in the cutting rooting process gets the cuttings off to a fast healthy start and good root development. Lower temperatures slow down and extend the rooting process which may let (bad) microbes get a foothold in the medium. Warmer temperatures usually speed up the rooting process but also speeds the growth of other (bad) microbes.

                If the cutting is still healthy, plump and hasn't started to shrivel (wrinkle) and die its possible that it may be saved by planting (burying) the entire cutting in clean, barely moist potting mix, any rotten sections would have to be removed back to healthy wood. It may sit for months but could start growing on its own, I've discarded a few cuttings in similar shape that rooted on their own in a pile of discarded mix. Using similar burial technique I've also salvage a few discarded mistreated cuttings that lost their roots, but where the cambium was still green and alive. Good luck
                Last edited by AscPete; 11-23-2015, 09:26 AM. Reason: spelling typos
                Pete R - Hudson Valley, NY - zone 5b

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                • #9
                  Hi WillsC : Thanks for your honest. I must apologies to the two members who gave me their cuttings and I disappointed them due to my careless and mistakes.

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                  • #10
                    Hi Pete : I really appreciate your quick and helpful responds. With your so details and explanation. I am sure that I will not have the same mistakes again on my next trial. Thanks..............

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                    • #11
                      Hi Pete : If I use 80% Perlite and 20% of potting mix and put them in a 16 oz plastic cup for cutting, what percentage of water should I put in a cup and will not too soggy. Usually how do you apply water to each cup to be safe meaning not too moisture and soggy. Thanks...........

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                      • #12
                        Its impossible for me to answer your question correctly but you can easily find the answer.
                        Its a simple procedure that's performed when you first make a batch of your custom potting mix, http://figs4funforum.websitetoolbox.com/post?id=6719728

                        In short,
                        1. Take a dry sample amount of your mix, the same amount that you would put in the 16 oz cups.
                        2. Place it in a plastic bag or container then add water 1/4 cup at a time and stir gently until the mix is uniformly moist and crumbly and will not form a ball or drip water when squeezed.
                        3. That is the amount that should be used to water the 16 oz cups of that mix when ever its dry and I usually water around the perimeter of the containers with the measured amount.

                        This procedure will work for any mix that can be purchased or made.
                        For a 16 oz cup/container of Miracle Gro Seed Starting mix (a little less than 2 cups of mix) its 1/3 to 1/2 cup of water (nutrient solution).
                        You have to wait between adding each 1/4 cup because the potting mix ingredients need time to absorb the moisture.

                        Also keep in mind that the potting mix should always be pre-watered before using it to pot up the cuttings.
                        Last edited by AscPete; 11-23-2015, 07:05 AM. Reason: added corrections
                        Pete R - Hudson Valley, NY - zone 5b

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                        • #13
                          Hi Pete, thank you again for your great information and I really appreciate it very much.

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                          • AscPete
                            AscPete commented
                            Editing a comment
                            You're welcome.

                        • #14
                          Hello Pete, I spent the whole day yesterday to re-pot my cuttings using 100% perlite with 1/4 cup water per each 16 oz plastic cup to see if possible to save my cuttings that I planted by mistake lately. Each cup I made 3 holes plus at least 10 holes near the bottom for more air to avoid from mold and too many moisture. I hope I did the right procedure this time, but if not, please correct me at once with thanks.

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                          • #15
                            Hello Pacifica,

                            How many cuttings?
                            What were the condition of the cuttings?
                            Are they healthy enough to start a whole new rooting process?

                            Cuttings that have put out leaves and roots which then die may not have enough stored energy to root.

                            Since you have started a new rooting process have you read through similar methods to familiarize yourself with the required procedures for 1st and 2nd stages of that rooting method, http://www.ourfigs.com/forum/figs-ho...ow-s-and-why-s .

                            BTW to increase rooting success rates the Perlite should be sifted, rinsed and drained to remove dust and fine particles (a colander works) that may settle to the bottom of the cups and cause rot. Good Luck.

                            Pete R - Hudson Valley, NY - zone 5b

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                            • #16
                              Hi Pete : It was 27 cuttings involved. I removed the dirts from each cup and put more holes then replaced with 100% perlite etc. Lots of work for one day.
                              I found almost 45% of the cuttings were still healthy with roots and 64% without roots, so I cut off the bottom part by 1 inch and inserted in the cup filled with perlite to see able to be alive in a week or not.
                              However, I did not rinse, sift and drain perlite as mentioned before I applied to each plastic cup. I will keep you updated in a week the status of all my cuttings in due course. Thanks...........

                              Comment


                              • #17
                                Thanks for the reply.

                                The cuttings that had roots (45%) should probably have been moved to stage #3, Grow and Fertilize, in a pre-watered well aerated potting mix since they were already rooted. Those without roots (64%) are OK to stay at Stage #2, Pre-rooting. Good Luck
                                Pete R - Hudson Valley, NY - zone 5b

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                                • #18
                                  Newbie question: Did you drill the holes in the side of the cup or use a soldering iron? If you drilled, is it possible you drilled too deep and damaged the main root and stunned the plant? If you used a soldering iron, would the burning/melting of the plastic and potting materials affect the new roots growth and health? Just curious.
                                  Edward - Edgewater, Florida (Zone 9b)
                                  Wish List: Holy Smokes, U. Prosciutto, Ham Rham, Labritja

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                                  • #19
                                    Hi efletche : I removed the cuttings to the new cups being drilled beforehand to avoid roots to be damaged.

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                                    • #20
                                      Hi Pete : Got you. Thanks a million..... Have a Happy Thanksgiving

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                                      • AscPete
                                        AscPete commented
                                        Editing a comment
                                        and a Happy Healthy Thanks Giving to you and yours.
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