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  • Fig rust...some observations

    I think fall fig rust is pretty dang common stuff, but I figured I'd give some input on what varieties seem to be susceptible and resistant in my hands. All my figs were clustered right together, and rust spread like wildfire as the fall progressed, yet some seemed to not care about it. Feel free to add to the list...I just think it might make a good resource for someone down the road.

    MBVS-Totally resistant. Surrounding plants all infected, no sign on this one
    Nero600m-Totally resistant. Not even a speck to be found.
    Adriatic JH-Moderately resistant. Has a few spots, and seems to be spreading, but not bad.
    LSU Purple: Very resistant. Its a little segregated from the others, but only by a few feet. Maybe that's all it takes...
    LSU gold: Quite susceptible. Keeps spreading up the plant. Only flaw on this otherwise healthy plant.
    Ischia Green: Seems unaffected by rust (too bad the FMV is so bad)
    VDB: Fairly resistant. A few specks, but not really spreading.
    RDB: Moderately susceptible. My best grower by far, but its been spreading slowly but surely up the plant.
    Excel: Very susceptible. Some of my best growers, but the rust seems to affect it quite badly.
    Alma: Very susceptible. Only a couple leaves left.
    Panache: Very susceptible. My first fig to really show symptoms, and it never got more than a few leaves before defoliating. Still alive though...
    Barnisotte: Moderately affected. This plant is so amazingly unhealthy. Few leaves with poor shape and marbled color, and seems to be susceptible to rust. Poor tree.
    Smith: Very small cutting, but seems to catch rust
    Champagne: Similar to smith. Small cutting, but still showing rust.

    Do others have inputs?
    Brett in Athens, GA zone 7b/8a

  • #2
    Black Spanish: Very susceptible, almost completely defoliated before new growth began.
    Hollier: Moderately susceptible, but still maintained reasonable growth
    Hardy Chicago: Moderately resistant, just a few spots, but no defoliation.
    Petite Negri: Fairly resistant, a few leaves lost,nothing more.


    • #3
      Don't mean to thread hijack- delete if inappropriate.

      What treatments/preventatives have you folks used (with or without success) for rust?? I'm a total noob, and appreciate all info.


      • AscPete
        AscPete commented
        Editing a comment
        Fungicides will help to control the spread of Rust, but none are currently 'Labeled for use on Figs'. Good orchard hygiene also helps to control outbreaks, http://www.ourfigs.com/forum/figs-ho...on-and-control

        Since Rust is spread by airborne fungal spores it may be difficult to control in warm humid areas where its prevalent in the environment.

      • newnandawg
        newnandawg commented
        Editing a comment
        Chris, I had some success two years ago with liquid copper but you
        have to start the spraying routine when it first appears. Removing
        infected leaves and disposing of them is very important.
        Last edited by newnandawg; 11-26-2015, 09:41 AM.

    • #4
      I have just been picking up fallen leaves, and mulching with cow manure. Definitely not a cure, but better sanitation=fewer spores.


      • #5
        Good thread. My Celeste and Malta Black seem to get hammered by the rust. I swear, they both have been defoliated by rust and then regrew leaves multiple times this season.

        LSU Purple and VDB seem to have pretty good resistance.


        • #6
          Thanks. Pete. figgrower- I curious as to how cow manure helps.


          • #7
            Nitrogen encourages decomposition of organic matter.


            • #8
              potassium bicarbonate will effectively reduce the rust...but once the damage has been done to the leaf...it's done...no correction to that.

              Late in the fall...clean up all the leaves which have dropped remove any weeds....lightly turn the soil in the pot or on the ground around the tree...and spray the ground with bicarb...another in the spring as the trees leaf out...it will help and reduce the rust spore population. Bicarb has been used for eons by farmers as a preventative spray.

              rusts and fungus bloom as the temperature rises past around 63 degrees and the humidity is up past 50%...early spring and late fall. The spores rise with the warming day and attach themselves to the leaves...stopping them at the ground while its cold will be most effective.

              spray the trees themselves with microcop or another copper based dormant spray....

              This will take a couple years to effectively remove it from your area....but its airborne, and your neighbor may not be taking the actions you will.....constant vigilance and preventative maintenance



              Ross B. Santa Rosa Calif zone 9b, wish list: CdD Blanc, Igo, Palmata, Sucrette, Morroco, Galicia Negra


              • AscPete
                AscPete commented
                Editing a comment
                Early spraying of the leaves with fungicides can prevent defoliation, it stops the fungal growth. Necrotic spots (Rust spots) may still develop, but the leaves remain healthy until frost. I've used the Bonide Copper Fungicide with good results for a couple of years, but Rust is not a major concern in my zone.

                Removing and destroying all the leaves at the end of the season has done more to prevented outbreaks the following year.

              • m5allen
                m5allen commented
                Editing a comment
                Thanks. Do you think this would be effective in Florida?

              • rusty hooks
                rusty hooks commented
                Editing a comment
                no matter the location....cleanup is always a good thing...and as for the bicarb....it's believed that it changes the ph of the fungus spore shell...should work just as well in Fla