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  • Tricks of the trade

    I am currently rooting figs in well rung out moss. I have dipped the ends of each cutting in CloneX. One of our local varieties is being particularly stubborn. Can anyone offer suggestions to help me improve my odds? Thank you.

  • #2
    Patients Amico is all you have left to do is wait.
    Zone 5 Chicago IL Wish list:
    1) Rest peacfully Amico Bello Buddy 👼🏼.
    2) This weeks ebay auctions.


    • #3
      Yes, hurry up and wait. Some will root in 6 to 8 days with no root stimulators, others can take months.
      Scott - Colorado Springs, CO - Zone 4/5 (Depending on the year) - Elevation 6266ft

      “Though the problems of the world are increasingly complex, the solutions remain embarrassingly simple.” – Bill Mollison


      • #4
        Soaking cuttings for 1 - 2 days before beginning pre-rooting.
        Maintaining temperatures constantly above 75F / 24C.
        Pre-rooting in an air tight container to maintain moisture content eliminates the need to "add moisture".

        As mentioned a few varieties will take longer, but most will root in 14 to 30 days...
        Good luck
        Pete R - Hudson Valley, NY - zone 5b


        • #5
          Best of luck


          • #6
            Thank you all for the feedback. I'm "type A", so waiting is truly the hardest part!


            • COGardener
              COGardener commented
              Editing a comment
              For us all!!!

            • Jamie0507
              Jamie0507 commented
              Editing a comment
              I am a card carrying member of the Type A Club myself 😉

          • #7
            You don't want any tips from me. My black mission from June finally rooted and leafed out last week. Had it in a cup, then moved it to dirt outside, finally back into a cup when things started getting colder. Lol

            I do wonder if some temperature variations can help roots start. I had some unknown cuttings in water to test with and they went several months in the water when it was warmer out without doing anything but started rooting once fall started coming. Cooler days and colder nights.
            Don - OH Zone 6a Wish list: Verdolino, Black Celeste


            • #8
              If it's been in there all of 3 days you just have to wait. Anything of mine that doesn't root in about 4 weeks is removed from whatever it's in and I start over. I usually soak over night in KLN, re-score the cutting, apply fresh clonex and then make the new environment dryer than the old environment. I also like to vary my day/night temps as it seems to help for me. I like daytime at 75-78 and nights 72 -3.
              Bob C.
              Kansas City, MO Z6


            • #9
              Thank you.


              • #10
                This is the method that I use. I've started about 50 figs from cuttings, gave most away, kept a few. I get about 90% rooting, 100% if cuttings taken from my own trees.

                I use the paper towel method and rooting hormone. I know that neither are necessary but it works for me.

                I wash the cuttings thoroughly. If they look mildewed or come from someone else, I wash them with a 10% bleach solution.

                I use a sharp knife to make an incision in the lower end of the cutting about 1 inch long and into the green cambium. Often, most of the roots come from the incision site.

                Then dip in dip-and-grow per label instructions.

                Then wrap in moist paper towel and seal in a plastic bag. I'm too cheap for zipper lock bags, I use twist tie bags.

                Then place on a dry towel on seed starting warmer mat.

                I check every couple of days. If there is any trace of mold or mildew, I rinse under running water and replace the paper towel with fresh moist paper towel.

                Depending on the variety and situation, they usually root in a week or two although some take longer.

                When the roots are 1 inch long, I get the towel wet so it comes off easily, rinse the cutting and place it into a pot with seed starting medium. If I can't get off all the paper towel, that's OK. Sometimes I miss it and the roots are several inches long. That's also OK.

                If it's winter, I use a fluorescent light setup. I water with 1/4 teaspoon of tomato miracle-grow per gallon of water.

                I know there are a zillion ways to do this and most of them work. This way gets me good growth, is reliable, and there are no fungus gnats to deal with.


                • #11
                  Thank you for the advice.


                  • #12
                    I know it's been said, but in my experience thus far.. I've found temperature and humidity to be absolutely crucial.
                    Zone 7A - Philadelphia
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