Scoring/Scraping a cutting? Callous?

[DBJohnson]

Ok, letting my newb flag fly here....

I've read several different methods for rooting and some say to score or scrape the cutting before starting and some don't mention it at all. What is the purpose of this and exactly what is involved--how deep, how long, what part of the circumference, etc?

Also...have come across the term "callous" in reference to cuttings (as opposed to hands and feet). What is this? What is its purpose? Is there something I can do to help make this happen (or not?)?

Here I am on stage...let the hazing begin (I've got a pretty thick skin)....just educate me in the process, please.

Thanks.

[DBJohnson]

Oh, and pics would be nice if you have them. I can learn through reading detailed information, but a picture can be worth a few thousand words. Thanks!

[fitzski]

Bryant,

You have probably seen this but this topic has a good explanation of the how's/why's you score.

http://www.ourfigs.com/forum/figs-ho...-are-you-using

My understanding is that you score to expose more of the cambium layer to the rooting hormone. That way increasing the potential amount of roots and success with the cutting.

As for me, I only score the bark (expose green cambium layer) for larger cuttings. All other ones I make a fresh cut at the bottom and then dip in rooting hormone (i use dip n grow).

So far this year, I'm seeing roots quicker and more abundant that last year.

Last year, i did not score or cut the ends off the cuttings and I had fairly good results.

Hope this helps.

[DBJohnson]

Thanks, Kevin! I had not seen that thread...and it even has a pic! Woot! Very informative (on several levels).

[fitzski]

you're welcome. i hope it helps.

[SarinaP]

I didn't score any of my cuttings, just a fresh cut, then dipped in cinnamon, and into the pot of Miracle Gro Sphagnum Peat Mix. It supposedly has rooting properties based on the contents. All but 2 of my 20+ cultivars are all doing fine. The 2 that didn't make it were thin and I lost them to mold. I'm going on 6 weeks now, started 11/4/15.

[ross]

I scored almost all of my cuttings and dipped them in rooting hormone. I can't tell you how many roots shot out of the score on most of them. I was pretty amazed. On the other side, I've heard a few people mention that the cutting can burning out. I believe this is the name of the term? This happens when the cutting produces lots of roots, but buds don't break. I really could use some more info on this term if anyone has any insight.

[DBJohnson]

I have found references to that happening--the cutting putting all of its energy into root production and leaving itself nothing for foliage. Based on what I've read, this seems more prevalent when the cutting is entirely covered in rooting hormone as opposed to just the bottom. This is one of my concerns with some of the methods I'm considering to bury almost all of the cutting. I will likely leave 2-3" above the media for foliage production and only dip the lowest portion that I score with Clonex.

[WillsC]

Also know that you can thin the clonex.....honestly the skeptical part of me thinks the gel is just a marketing gimmick to get you to use 5x the product you need to as a lot of gel sticks to the cuttings.

[DBJohnson]

I don't doubt you are correct. Biggest marketing red flag is "new and improved!" What ratio would you recommend for thinning it down without losing effectiveness? 2:1? 5:1? (Water:Clonex)

I'll be experimenting with 3 different methods and plan to spread my cuttings across them all with duplicate cultivars in each method group. I don't think I'll have enough of the same cultivar to properly test hormone dilution levels with this winters rooting project (although, I will likely check to see if I can do some small scale tests where I do have the multiples in the same method).

[Blackfoot12]

I have used both Dip and Grow and Clonex at this point. Both work and I will continue to use both until I am out of the Clonex. But I prefer the Dip and Grow and if you mix it in small batches I find it very economical. Also, I have run into this situation where massive amounts of roots come out of the scrapes. Then the cutting stalls both root production and leafing out. Seems to happen on very fresh cuttings. Note to self: Don't scrape very fresh cuttings. Otherwise I am just absolutely tickled (LOL) with all the roots showing up on my cuttings. Thanks to all the good advice on the forums.

[Hobo62288]

Since this is being talked about. What if you used no rooting hormone and your cuttings is doing this, all roots and no top growth? Mine had been growing roots like crazy for months and still has not even a single bud. I'm worried its gonna die on me. Any suggestions?

[SarinaP]

How many nodes do you have above the soil line? No swelling or green showing at all?

[AscPete]

As long as the cutting has access to some nutrients in the potting mix there should be no problem. It will break bud in due time.

[Hobo62288]

I'll try to get a pic or two late tonight when I'm off work. It's got so many roots its crazy. Entire cup is covered almist. Maybe going ahead and Potting up will help?

Edit- I think it's just one node above soil line but maybe two.

[DaveL]

Bryan,imo not to worry top growth should catch up. Your better off establishing a good root growth first. Just be careful and don't over water or over expose to bright light. Once you start to get some budding up introduce the light to prevent the plant from getting leggy.

[Taverna78]

I always score cutting. No sure it helps but all my cutting root so far.

[GregMartin]

To the question about callus tissue, it's a form of unorganized plant tissue that develops to heal wounds. The callus tissue can then differentiate to form roots, so scoring a cutting can allow more areas for roots to form from. On many cuttings I've noticed that roots will only form at the bottom edge of the cutting where the callus forms from the damage at the cut. Scoring those cuttings provides more damage that then translates into callus, then roots. With figs I don't really think this is necessary as they seem to send roots out all over the cutting where moisture is maintained, but for other cuttings like the citrus and grape cuttings I've sometimes rooted this provides a definite boost.

An interesting thing about callus is that it can also produce shoots if the hormone balance is correct. Makes me think that you may be able to create shoots without a bud if you apply the right concentration of the right hormone to callus tissue you can form with scoring if you keep that tissue moist. That might come in handy, no?

[GregMartin]

One extra thought, though. Perhaps for difficult to root fig varieties some extra callus area may be important....not sure without making a bit of a study out of it. Send me your fig cuttings that are rare due to rooting difficulty and I'll do the study!

[Harborseal]

If you have roots and no leaves fertilize the cutting with dilute houseplant fertilizer every time you wanter it and keep it under a bright light. Take it from your cup to a pot and be sure there's lot's of organic material but you still have good drainage.

[DBJohnson]

Thank you all for the responses. Very educational and enlightening.

[Taverna78]

Bryant. Tis example of results. I have two of same cutting. One scored with d&g one untouched with d&g. Un scored one still no root. Maybe just coincidental ? All root coming out of tis cutting in photo are coming out at the score line edges. None on bark or on green layer directly centered.

[DBJohnson]

Thanks, Mike. Looks like I'll be scoring my cuttings in a week or two.

[Taverna78]

Bryant

Tis is just how I have do it from beginning and has worked for me. No saying is correct or necessary but photo at least will show my results. I post more photo on Sarah post on cuttings with massive roots done same way.

[DBJohnson]

I understand, Amico! The proof is in the pictures.

[Rafaelissimmo]

I shave the lowest node as well as score. I use dip n grow for years, I prefer it to clonex