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  • #26
    Not sure,, the cups need direct sunlight for most of the day.
    If you get sun through your window it should be ok.
    Try it.

    Doug

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    • #27
      Perhaps a seed starter heating mat and grow light. Small investments to get your figs going with Doug's system.

      Doug?
      Scott - Colorado Springs, CO - Zone 4/5 (Depending on the year) - Elevation 6266ft

      “Though the problems of the world are increasingly complex, the solutions remain embarrassingly simple.” – Bill Mollison

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      • #28
        That is a good idea. I have not tried the heat mat.
        When condensation forms in the top cup your getting the soil warmed up anyway.
        But it will need some kind of light.
        The window sill is how I started testing this method. When facing south I get the most direct sunlight hours.
        Not sure what I'm going to do.
        I hooked up my LED 200 watt grow light and checked it with a watt meter and I'm still pulling 187 watts from the 120v outlet.
        This last year I installed 360 watts of solar panels and 8-6v golf cart style batteries to run a 24v dc off grid power.
        Now I'm watching every way I use my electricity. I'm going to build a 100 watt led using 2 -50 watt led chips to
        help save on my electric. I have been doing well with $65 electric bill in a 4 bedroom home.

        Times are tight, so I may use every south facing window sill I have (3)and fill them with cups.
        Free and it still works.

        Doug

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        • #29
          Where did you find black cups? I've checked three stores and the closest I get is dark blue.

          Think dark blue is good enough?
          Don - OH Zone 6a Wish list: Verdolino, Black Celeste, Rubado, Zaffiro, Moro de Caneva, Nerucciolo d'Elba, Bordissot Blanca Negra

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          • #30
            Never tried em.
            Walmart is where I get them.
            Black absorbs the suns heat.

            Doug

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            • #31
              Wish List -

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            • #32
              This is one of the methods I'm using...well, a modified version. I'm using red cups instead of black because there were no black ones to be had around here; I'm using heat mats and lights instead of a window because I don't have a southern facing window. They've been set up for 2 weeks and There are visible roots on 2 or 3 of them...buds breaking or swelling on another 7 or 8.
              You may only view thumbnails in this gallery. This gallery has 4 photos.
              Bryant...Franklin County, VA...Zone 7a. Wish List: a 32 hour day....more sleep

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              • #33
                I know this is a really old thread, but I will be using this method for the first time. I do have a question - its already in the mid 80s here in zone 9a and hits 90 often too. How hot is too hot? I have no south-facing widow but I have plenty of sun in the yard. Would this be a safe method if the cuttings/cups are left outdoors?
                Scott Head
                Friendswood, TX - Zone 9a
                Black Gumbo Southern Gardening

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                • #34
                  Not in the sun, they will cook.
                  Cutting sales at willsfigs.com will continue till about March 1.

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                  • #35
                    Best place I have for them is on a shady porch facing west, gets ambient light. Having never done this before, is sunlight necessary? I could use my grow lights but the garage, where my lights are, gets to 110+ in the evenings with the sun heating up the metal doors. I'll think about the location some more. Its warm enough here, but the light seems to be my hurdle. Cuttings arrived today and are in the fridge until I get my cups all readied. Looking forward to learning and getting started.
                    Scott Head
                    Friendswood, TX - Zone 9a
                    Black Gumbo Southern Gardening

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                    • #36
                      Scott,

                      You like me are in a warm humid place. You can root the cuttings outside in a bright spot. You don't need the cup on top. I root all my cuttings right in the GH in full sun in the winter. This time of the year I move the cuttings, the slow pokes to the back GH as it isn't as sunny. You do need to pick a spot where they are protected from rain, you want to control the water. Water is the enemy.....
                      Cutting sales at willsfigs.com will continue till about March 1.

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                      • #37
                        OK - On a related topic. Your cuttings have rooted and they're leafing nicely out in the shade... At what point do you know they're ready to start going out into the full sun and begin being treated like normal trees. What's the indicator that they're ready?
                        Guildwood Village - Toronto, Canada - Zone 6

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                        • eboone
                          eboone
                          Moderator
                          eboone commented
                          Editing a comment
                          Healthy roots, I think. That works for me here in PA, where the sun never approaches Florida strength. Gradual introduction to sun.

                        • TorontoJoe
                          TorontoJoe
                          Moderator
                          TorontoJoe commented
                          Editing a comment
                          What would you consider "healthy roots"? Would you say, completely root filled?

                        • CliffH
                          CliffH
                          Fig Phenom
                          CliffH commented
                          Editing a comment
                          For a "rooting cup" or small pot, then I would say filled with roots. Here in Houston I put the young plants in partial shade, only getting a little morning sun, for about a week. Then move them to a spot getting full morning sun, but shaded in the afternoon. Then finally into the full summer sun.

                          Part of this depends on if you use a grow light; and if you do, what is its UV spectrum? I do have some full spectrum lights with additional high-end blue wavelength UV bulbs. When I grow under these, I can move the plant to full sun after only 4 - 5 day in a fairly morning sunny spot.

                      • #38
                        Its already well into spring but I'm starting some cuttings for the first time using this method (I have four progressing well with the bag/water method already). Since its hot here already (85+ occasionally 90) and my garage where my grow lights are gets to 110+ in the afternoon, I'll be using the grow lights through the night and morning and moving the cuttings to my front porch, which s shaded, for the afternoon. We have high humidity here but I will still be using the top cups so I will know when the medium is drying up. I'm doing everything according to Doug's method (I did add 4 holes on bottom and 12 all around the bottom cup) and hope to have the success rate he's had. I will let folks know how it goes. Cuttings will be in the cups tomorrow latest!
                        Scott Head
                        Friendswood, TX - Zone 9a
                        Black Gumbo Southern Gardening

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                        • #39
                          Day 8 nothing visible yet except maybe 2 white dots near the middle of the cutting. I'm dying to add more water but I know everyone keeps saying don't do that. The temperature on the outside the cups is 71. Should I increase the heat? What would you do?
                          Attached Files

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                          • Rootch
                            Rootch
                            Senior Member
                            Rootch commented
                            Editing a comment
                            hey there! looks like we started rooting our cuttings the same day and in similar conditions. mine are sitting on a south facing sill at 71-72 degrees as well

                            this was my first time doing so and of all my cuttings, one of them is throwing out small leaves already with 1-2 more having buds that are swelling up


                            one thing that looks much different between yours and mine is the moisture. i have visible humidity inside my domes and yours looks a little dry (but im no expert and could just be the picture?)

                          • richardk
                            richardk
                            Veteran
                            richardk commented
                            Editing a comment
                            well let's keep comparing notes

                        • #40
                          Richard, be patient. 8 days isn't very long. Make sure the soil has some moisture in it but is not saturated. If the surface is totally dry it wouldn't hurt to add a small amount. I sometimes use a syringe (sans needle) to add water along the side of the cup through vent holes.
                          Steve
                          D-i-c-k-e-r-s-o-n, MD; zone 7a
                          WL: Nantes Maroc

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                          • #41
                            One thing I noticed in all the rooting methods is that having a heat pad providing supplemental warmth to the bottom is beneficial to faster rooting. can't be really hot but I think that maintaining a temperature of around 80 degrees around the root area is the ticket. In using the baggie method where you bag um and forget um, I put all the bagged cuttings into a shipping box sitting on a heating pad keeping the bottom temp at around 80 and in a completely dark environment for a number of weeks and I had VERY high success with rooting of those cuttings. I tried a number of bagged cuttings stored the same way but without the heat pad and the success rate on that population was markedly lower... I ended up adding heat to the reluctant rooters and many of them then rooted and sprouted leaves....
                            Tony - Zone 6A
                            WL- Good Health, a 60 lb Striped Bass, a Boone and Crockett Typical Buck, bushels of ripe Black Madeira figs, bushels of ripe Hachiya and other tasty Diospyros Kaki Persimmons

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                            • #42
                              hold on the water... I know... it's tough... I've had cuttings take months to take off...

                              Don't start with the water on first sign of roots either. They're still pretty prone to rot....

                              It's better to put them out of sight and just ignore them for a month.
                              Guildwood Village - Toronto, Canada - Zone 6

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                              • richardk
                                richardk
                                Veteran
                                richardk commented
                                Editing a comment
                                Oh my God Joe, it's so hard!! When I put my ear up to the cup I can almost hear the cutting whispering... "More Water......" and I keep saying no

                              • TorontoJoe
                                TorontoJoe
                                Moderator
                                TorontoJoe commented
                                Editing a comment
                                I know. Been there. This is why you need to get it out of your line of sight...

                                "A watched cutting never roots"

                            • #43
                              It isn't whispering "more water", it is screaming "LEAVE ME ALONE!" Seriously, just put it in a window and don't even look again for 2 weeks. When they need water eventually, the cup will be feather-light...you'll know it.
                              Houston, TX Zone 9a

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                              • #44
                                richardk
                                Veteran
                                richardk we are at day 15, how are things looking for you? i know its still early but im showing about 50% success with my first attempt.

                                i have several that are leafing/branching out, a couple with bud swelling and to my shock, 2-3 that look dead above ground but have roots circling the perimeter of the cups!

                                yesterday it got up to 80 degrees on the window sill. last night, i applied another round of peroxide to the ones that had visible mold. i think this evening I need to add additional vent hole(s) to the ones that have leaves. before long space inside these cups is going to be an issue
                                Want: Bordissot NR

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                                • richardk
                                  richardk
                                  Veteran
                                  richardk commented
                                  Editing a comment
                                  So I started 5 cuttings non have top growth
                                  Oct 6 Latturula - i just saw roots yesterday
                                  Oct 6 Atreano - No roots visible
                                  Oct 11 Figo Preto - No roots visible
                                  Oct 11 Pingo De Mel - No roots visible
                                  Oct 11 Verns brown Turkey - No roots visible

                                  I'm hoping to see some roots by the weekend (fingers crossed)

                                • Rootch
                                  Rootch
                                  Senior Member
                                  Rootch commented
                                  Editing a comment
                                  guess I should have mentioned that the only ones with leaves are the enormous cuttings that are about an inch in diameter. with their lack of visible roots it really makes me wonder if they just have that much stored up energy and this might be false hope they are giving me

                              • #45
                                Close the door and just stop looking at them already! Remember (above), "A watched cutting never roots"

                                I don't mean to be a wet blanket but buds and leafing out aren't generally that desirable early on. It's all about roots right now. What resources the stick is expending in above ground .....It isn't in roots... Which are what you need to sustain long term. You can have a cutting fully leafed out and then suddenly conk out on you if there aren't roots to support it..... This has happened to me many, many times.... Some people clip back the leaves. I definitely recommend pinching off a fig if ti develops this early....

                                I know it's hard guys.... but don't be tempted to watering this thing because you see leaves and buds.... Leave it alone.... At this point, If it's going to take, it'll do so without any further help.

                                And remember NOBODY is 100% with this.....
                                Guildwood Village - Toronto, Canada - Zone 6

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                                • #46
                                  I am not clear about the purpose or the utility of the black cup. Is it to keep any light out of the rooting medium to stop algae from forming on the medium, or to hold some water to keep the medium moist?
                                  Location: NJ, zone 6b
                                  Wish List: Martineca Rimada, BM-KK, Ischia Black

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                                  • #47
                                    Originally posted by Harish-C View Post
                                    I am not clear about the purpose or the utility of the black cup. Is it to keep any light out of the rooting medium to stop algae from forming on the medium, or to hold some water to keep the medium moist?
                                    Many growers believe that roots react poorly to light... I believe this to be false.... I also believe I am in the minority on this one so consider the can of worms opened widely! I understand the rational that roots don't naturally exist where there is light and that they are prone to burn however, etc, etc, blah, blah, blah.......

                                    IN MY HUMBLEST OPINION, root's in a clear cup are only exposed to the light when they start circling the sides of a cup anyways. Pretty much when you're ready to pot them up. Most of the roots are in with the soil shielded from the light . Also, I don't root in direct sun. So I don't think the little bit of ambient light they get in the early rooting stages is any problem at all.... At least it hasn't been for me...

                                    OK, I said it.... Go ahead and let me have it if you wish...
                                    Guildwood Village - Toronto, Canada - Zone 6

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                                    • Harish-C
                                      Harish-C
                                      Veteran
                                      Harish-C commented
                                      Editing a comment
                                      I agree with you Joe. As a beginner in fig culture I have been fairly successful in rooting cuttings in a small clear plastic cup, with holes for drainage, sitting on a heating mat, and put in a large tote with LED grow lights left on 24/7. Light does cause some slight algae formation on top of the rooting medium, but does not affect the roots deep inside the cup. Beside the light issue, won't the outside cup, if it is the same size as the inner cup, block the drainage holes and prevent air movement to the rooting zone.

                                  • #48
                                    Hey all, black cup is to adsorb heat in the sunlight. It also keeps roots from light.
                                    It is my opinion that roots like darkness. Roots do like oxygen.
                                    That is the need for a light mix that retains moisture.

                                    Doug
                                    SCfigFanatic2
                                    Banned
                                    Last edited by SCfigFanatic2; 12-28-2017, 06:58 PM.

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                                    • #49
                                      Let me add that putting a cup in the window means inside my house.
                                      heating inside to 70 degrees. Too much heat would cook the whole thing.
                                      The top cup will steam up inside during the day and dissipate at night.
                                      It works as a terrarium kinda. The droplets run
                                      back into dirt cup.

                                      hope it helps
                                      Doug

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                                      • #50
                                        SCfigFanatic2
                                        Banned
                                        SCfigFanatic2 , do you put perlite in your MG seed starting mix? Also, I had some cuttings in perlite/vermiculite that didn't do well in a bin (some got mold) so I thought I'd try your 3 cup method method instead. I have them on a south facing window but they steam up on the one side that gets the sun. I turn them every day to try to give them equal sunlight but I'm worried there's not enough moisture in my medium but I'm not adding any water. Right now, I'm not feeling the perlite/vermiculite mix. I cleaned the cuttings that molded in soap and then bleach after that before I re-cupped the cuttings. I have some other cuttings that will go straight into the MG medium you recommended.
                                        Lehigh Valley, Pennsylvania / Zone 6b

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