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    grasshopper
    Fig Phenom

  • grasshopper
    replied
    I used the humidity bin/top cup sometimes, usually in cases which leaves grew quicker than roots(even with parafilm). When I use the bin, I typically don't need to water for weeks due to low evaporation. If you don't overwater, the roots would catch up eventually.

    Leave a comment:

  • ginamcd
    Fig Phenom

  • ginamcd
    replied
    I started my first batch with the three cup method and it worked great up until they started leafing out. I think my house is too humid to begin with (45-50%), so even adding holes as directed left me with graying and molding leaves. I finally prematurely ditched the top cups, all the leaves died and dropped, but after I got them under lights six survived. I went with parafilm and direct potting for the rest and this seems to be working better for my situation.
    ginamcd
    Fig Phenom
    Last edited by ginamcd; 03-18-2018, 11:12 AM.

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  • akatennant
    Member

  • akatennant
    replied
    Btw, I just got some parafilm I’m the mail so I took them out and wrapped them

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  • akatennant
    Member

  • akatennant
    replied
    Yeah I haven’t watered. Sprayed a little a couple times. That’s it. Pulled them out and no roots yet. I didn’t use parafilm either. I had some Saran Wrap over them at first but took it off because I was worried it would get too humid

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  • grasshopper
    Fig Phenom

  • grasshopper
    commented on 's reply
    Be careful of overwatering. At the beginning, you don't need to "water" the cups until you see some roots. The mix can be premoisten with about 10-15% water by volume. Also, depending on the percentage and size of perlite, the mix can be pretty water retentive so you need to be careful with watering.

    Basically, you are planting them in cups (but not transparent ones)? If that is the case, you can dig one out to check. Worst case you break some tiny roots but they will grow back. I usually flip the cup upside down, squeeze & remove the cup and then gently remove the soil by hand.

    Did you use parafilm or wax to seal the top above soil? If you do that, you don't need the top cup and later acclimatation.
  • akatennant
    Member

  • akatennant
    replied
    I mixed up some miracle grow seed starter mix and some perlite and scored the cuttings and stuck them in the soil. I’ve got holes in the bottom of the cups and have poured water in a basin for them to wick up the water.

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  • grasshopper
    Fig Phenom

  • grasshopper
    commented on 's reply
    That depends on the cuttings and the method you are using. 2 - 3 weeks is typically the window for initial root development in easily rooted cuttings. Some cuttings take even less time, some take longer. Which method did you use?
  • akatennant
    Member

  • akatennant
    replied
    Hey, I just found this frequently referenced topics page... So, if I started some cuttings a couple of weeks ago, would it be too late to start them over with this method? I would think it would be fine, right?

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  • SCfigFanatic2
    Banned

  • SCfigFanatic2
    replied
    Yes 30 percent perlite with MG seed starter.

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  • Harish-C
    Veteran

  • Harish-C
    commented on 's reply
    I agree with you Joe. As a beginner in fig culture I have been fairly successful in rooting cuttings in a small clear plastic cup, with holes for drainage, sitting on a heating mat, and put in a large tote with LED grow lights left on 24/7. Light does cause some slight algae formation on top of the rooting medium, but does not affect the roots deep inside the cup. Beside the light issue, won't the outside cup, if it is the same size as the inner cup, block the drainage holes and prevent air movement to the rooting zone.
  • BlueEagle1967
    Veteran

  • BlueEagle1967
    replied
    SCfigFanatic2
    Banned
    SCfigFanatic2 , do you put perlite in your MG seed starting mix? Also, I had some cuttings in perlite/vermiculite that didn't do well in a bin (some got mold) so I thought I'd try your 3 cup method method instead. I have them on a south facing window but they steam up on the one side that gets the sun. I turn them every day to try to give them equal sunlight but I'm worried there's not enough moisture in my medium but I'm not adding any water. Right now, I'm not feeling the perlite/vermiculite mix. I cleaned the cuttings that molded in soap and then bleach after that before I re-cupped the cuttings. I have some other cuttings that will go straight into the MG medium you recommended.

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  • SCfigFanatic2
    Banned

  • SCfigFanatic2
    replied
    Let me add that putting a cup in the window means inside my house.
    heating inside to 70 degrees. Too much heat would cook the whole thing.
    The top cup will steam up inside during the day and dissipate at night.
    It works as a terrarium kinda. The droplets run
    back into dirt cup.

    hope it helps
    Doug

    Leave a comment:

  • SCfigFanatic2
    Banned

  • SCfigFanatic2
    replied
    Hey all, black cup is to adsorb heat in the sunlight. It also keeps roots from light.
    It is my opinion that roots like darkness. Roots do like oxygen.
    That is the need for a light mix that retains moisture.

    Doug
    SCfigFanatic2
    Banned
    Last edited by SCfigFanatic2; 12-28-2017, 06:58 PM.

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  • TorontoJoe
    Moderator

  • TorontoJoe
    replied
    Originally posted by Harish-C View Post
    I am not clear about the purpose or the utility of the black cup. Is it to keep any light out of the rooting medium to stop algae from forming on the medium, or to hold some water to keep the medium moist?
    Many growers believe that roots react poorly to light... I believe this to be false.... I also believe I am in the minority on this one so consider the can of worms opened widely! I understand the rational that roots don't naturally exist where there is light and that they are prone to burn however, etc, etc, blah, blah, blah.......

    IN MY HUMBLEST OPINION, root's in a clear cup are only exposed to the light when they start circling the sides of a cup anyways. Pretty much when you're ready to pot them up. Most of the roots are in with the soil shielded from the light . Also, I don't root in direct sun. So I don't think the little bit of ambient light they get in the early rooting stages is any problem at all.... At least it hasn't been for me...

    OK, I said it.... Go ahead and let me have it if you wish...

    Leave a comment:

  • Harish-C
    Veteran

  • Harish-C
    replied
    I am not clear about the purpose or the utility of the black cup. Is it to keep any light out of the rooting medium to stop algae from forming on the medium, or to hold some water to keep the medium moist?

    Leave a comment:

  • TorontoJoe
    Moderator

  • TorontoJoe
    replied
    Close the door and just stop looking at them already! Remember (above), "A watched cutting never roots"

    I don't mean to be a wet blanket but buds and leafing out aren't generally that desirable early on. It's all about roots right now. What resources the stick is expending in above ground .....It isn't in roots... Which are what you need to sustain long term. You can have a cutting fully leafed out and then suddenly conk out on you if there aren't roots to support it..... This has happened to me many, many times.... Some people clip back the leaves. I definitely recommend pinching off a fig if ti develops this early....

    I know it's hard guys.... but don't be tempted to watering this thing because you see leaves and buds.... Leave it alone.... At this point, If it's going to take, it'll do so without any further help.

    And remember NOBODY is 100% with this.....

    Leave a comment:

  • Rootch
    Senior Member

  • Rootch
    commented on 's reply
    guess I should have mentioned that the only ones with leaves are the enormous cuttings that are about an inch in diameter. with their lack of visible roots it really makes me wonder if they just have that much stored up energy and this might be false hope they are giving me
  • richardk
    Veteran

  • richardk
    commented on 's reply
    So I started 5 cuttings non have top growth
    Oct 6 Latturula - i just saw roots yesterday
    Oct 6 Atreano - No roots visible
    Oct 11 Figo Preto - No roots visible
    Oct 11 Pingo De Mel - No roots visible
    Oct 11 Verns brown Turkey - No roots visible

    I'm hoping to see some roots by the weekend (fingers crossed)
  • Rootch
    Senior Member

  • Rootch
    replied
    richardk
    Veteran
    richardk we are at day 15, how are things looking for you? i know its still early but im showing about 50% success with my first attempt.

    i have several that are leafing/branching out, a couple with bud swelling and to my shock, 2-3 that look dead above ground but have roots circling the perimeter of the cups!

    yesterday it got up to 80 degrees on the window sill. last night, i applied another round of peroxide to the ones that had visible mold. i think this evening I need to add additional vent hole(s) to the ones that have leaves. before long space inside these cups is going to be an issue

    Leave a comment:

  • TorontoJoe
    Moderator

  • TorontoJoe
    commented on 's reply
    I know. Been there. This is why you need to get it out of your line of sight...

    "A watched cutting never roots"
  • Visceral
    Senior Member

  • Visceral
    replied
    It isn't whispering "more water", it is screaming "LEAVE ME ALONE!" Seriously, just put it in a window and don't even look again for 2 weeks. When they need water eventually, the cup will be feather-light...you'll know it.

    Leave a comment:

  • richardk
    Veteran

  • richardk
    commented on 's reply
    Oh my God Joe, it's so hard!! When I put my ear up to the cup I can almost hear the cutting whispering... "More Water......" and I keep saying no
  • richardk
    Veteran

  • richardk
    commented on 's reply
    well let's keep comparing notes
  • TorontoJoe
    Moderator

  • TorontoJoe
    replied
    hold on the water... I know... it's tough... I've had cuttings take months to take off...

    Don't start with the water on first sign of roots either. They're still pretty prone to rot....

    It's better to put them out of sight and just ignore them for a month.

    Leave a comment:

  • Rootch
    Senior Member

  • Rootch
    commented on 's reply
    hey there! looks like we started rooting our cuttings the same day and in similar conditions. mine are sitting on a south facing sill at 71-72 degrees as well

    this was my first time doing so and of all my cuttings, one of them is throwing out small leaves already with 1-2 more having buds that are swelling up


    one thing that looks much different between yours and mine is the moisture. i have visible humidity inside my domes and yours looks a little dry (but im no expert and could just be the picture?)
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