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  • #26
    It was only $9.99a month ago.nit free shipping received it next day
    Savannah Ga zone 8b

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    • #27
      Im giving this a try, it was lot more work so I I stopped and did half of my cuttings this way, rest are in potting mix only like usual. The cups with DE on top were done the same way Lucrative described, with extra DE on top. I used clonex gel, and wrapped top with parafilm. I didnt soack any cuttings. Varieties are Maltese Beauty, CDD Noir, CDD Roja, CDD Rimada, Smith, Ischia Black, Black Madeira, Black Bethlehem, I258, and Galicia Negra there are 2 of each cuttings except for a few where I did 3. These will be inside the house in office closet where temperatures are always 73-75.
      Attached Files
      MJ
      Chicago Zone 5a/5b

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      • MJA829
        MJA829 commented
        Editing a comment
        Vladimir yes, I will use growing lights plus I have a heated storage area where I will put them later, and they get daylight and some indirect sun light. Not the easiest but I dont mind caring for these during the winter.

      • BrandonP
        BrandonP commented
        Editing a comment
        MJA829 How are your cuttings doing. I rooted a number around the same time as you (some in 100% DE, some in this "unified" method), so I'm curious how yours are coming along.

      • Dtownfigs
        Dtownfigs commented
        Editing a comment
        Nice selection! MJA829

    • #28
      MJA829 Please let me know how it goes for you. I've had really great results so far, hope you see the same. You might need to give the d.e. a spray in the cup top area every now and again, it will begin dry out a little faster than the medium around it.
      -Luke S. at Keesler AFB, 9a
      -SAH Dad, gardener, fan of comedy, philosophy, and the deep dive on YouTube
      -W/L: JN, CCN, Thermalito

      Comment


      • MJA829
        MJA829 commented
        Editing a comment
        Thanks, I will do that.

    • #29
      I started a few cuttings a week ago using this method. How often do you add additional water to the cups? Some of my cups seem light.

      Comment


      • Lucrative
        Lucrative commented
        Editing a comment
        It will obviously vary from situation to situation, but you should not let your d.e./perlite mix dry out. Same principle as rooting with D.E alone. This method should help those who tend to over water and kill cuttings, and also remove the need for transplanting into a new mix shortly after rooting.

    • #30
      I had a similar question to Ctown. I typically wrap the exposed part of the cutting with parafilm and don't use a humidity bin. I also don't cover the top of the cup like MJA829 is showing above. With this method (i.e. the uncovered cups exposed to dry winter air) my concern would be that the DE/perlite isn't going to hold enough moisture against the cutting in early stages unless you are careful to add a bit of water on a frequent basis. Once the roots invade the surrounding peat-based mix (which hold more water) then you shouldn't need to be so careful I suppose. I guess I'll just have to try a few and see how it goes.
      Steve
      D-i-c-k-e-r-s-o-n, MD; zone 7a
      WL: Zaffiro, Verdolino, Figue Jaune, Nantes Maroc, Lussheim

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      • Lucrative
        Lucrative commented
        Editing a comment
        It is very similar to using only D.E. only, and you can see pretty well when you need to add water. The D.E. will change color when it dries out. I keep a spray bottle around and give it some water every couple of days or as needed. At some point, the mix around the D.E. will begin to dry out as well, and you can put the cups in water to bottom water when that happens and/or top water. The good thing is, even if you accidentally over water your core mix, the D.E./perlite mix will drain well and be absorbed into the surrounding potting mix.

      • Rewton
        Rewton commented
        Editing a comment
        OK, you sold me! I'll definitely try this.

    • #31
      Rewton Ctown I killed hundreds of cuttings with too much love ( aka water) so I came up with this visual guide, to help with the urge πŸ˜…
      Attached Files
      MJ
      Chicago Zone 5a/5b

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      • Rewton
        Rewton commented
        Editing a comment
        Very informative - thanks.

    • #32
      This method is continuing to produce very good results for me. I've had a couple failures, but I believe it to be due to less than stellar cuttings. I got some thinner, pithy cuttings of 2 different varieties from the same seller, and those are the only ones that have failed so far.
      -Luke S. at Keesler AFB, 9a
      -SAH Dad, gardener, fan of comedy, philosophy, and the deep dive on YouTube
      -W/L: JN, CCN, Thermalito

      Comment


      • #33
        It worked! This is my first up-pot with this method. As you can see, I waited until the roots were very strong and filled the cup before transferring to a 1 gallon. From start to this point was about 2 months. I could wait even longer for some varieties, but the Kennet Unk is a very strong rooter. The surrounding mix held together well, preventing any damage to the roots. Although it could still be possible to mess up the up-pot, this was a fairly easy process, and went just as I hoped it would when I thought through this method.
        Attached Files
        -Luke S. at Keesler AFB, 9a
        -SAH Dad, gardener, fan of comedy, philosophy, and the deep dive on YouTube
        -W/L: JN, CCN, Thermalito

        Comment


        • Lucrative
          Lucrative commented
          Editing a comment
          BrandonP - I was watering this one once maybe every 2 or 3 days when it got to this point. At this point they are capable of taking more water than earlier on, but I'm still not fully soaking the medium. I am watering with diluted 20-20-20 and I'll throw some superthrive in there, too. My rooting area is pretty warm and I have fans going, so my area may dry out quicker than some others.

        • Najamm
          Najamm commented
          Editing a comment
          That looks great! Lucrative, how long did you leave them in the cup after seeing first root?

        • Lucrative
          Lucrative commented
          Editing a comment
          Najamm I think it pushed roots around a month in. Time till I remove depends entirely on the fig's roots. I'll wait until the root mass is solid enough to hold it together. This is also good because you can get some good waterings in.

      • #34
        Very encouraging!!!
        Your cuttings look very healthy and strong.
        Piney Point Village, Zone 8b
        W/L: MIB

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        • #35
          Here is part of my little experiment (other varieties also going but these are first to both root).
          Black Mission cuttings obtained from backyardfigs
          One potted in 100% DE.
          One in Lucrative's method (except I did not include perlite..just DE around the stem).
          I can update further in a few weeks.

          Both started 11/22.

          I am very please with the progress of both cuttings so far (3 weeks in).

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          Zone 8b, College Station, TX
          Wish List: Maltese Beauty, CLBC.

          Comment


          • Lucrative
            Lucrative commented
            Editing a comment
            Looking great! Glad it's working for you! The mix does seem a little too wet, but I can't say for sure as it's just a picture, and you've got roots, so you're headed in the right direction.

        • #36
          I've had so many issues with up-potting that I finally found my ultimate foolproof method - let someone else do it and buy rooted cuttings.

          Other than that, I'm sticking with putting them directly into a gallon pot outside in the spring once it gets warm. Then the up-potting issue disappears. I did that this spring and had a significantly better success rate.

          Also, with so much talk about DE, just a note to those who want to try working with it. The dust that comes with it is full of silica, which is VERY bad for your lungs. Either use a facemask when working with it, or rinse it down to get rid of the dust first.
          Zone 7B/8A Wake Forest, NC. Wish list - 1. To stop murdering fig cuttings. 2. To find the biggest, juiciest, cold hardiest, most delicious common fig in the world! (and not murder it)

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          • Cguitar
            Cguitar commented
            Editing a comment
            At least an N95 rated mask should be used when DE can possibly become airborne. A half-faced respirator is better since they seal tighter and are more likely to give you negative pressure upon inhalation.

        • #37
          PSA for anyone trying this method in the future (or a variation of this method):

          https://www.ourfigs.com/forum/figs-h...ls-for-rooting
          -Luke S. at Keesler AFB, 9a
          -SAH Dad, gardener, fan of comedy, philosophy, and the deep dive on YouTube
          -W/L: JN, CCN, Thermalito

          Comment


          • #38
            Michael one gallon pots outdoors is the way to go.
            Actively seeking any and all varieties
            #Sharing is caring
            Courtenay, BC πŸ‡¨πŸ‡¦ zone 8a

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            • #39
              Three cheers for the old antiquated dirty Figpop method. I am sticking with organic sphagnum mix potting soil, 1/4 Perlite, 1/4 Coir and hand squeezed no drip rain water. I have a small heated and grow light grow chamber...works for me! During the early summer I stuck a 12” RdB cutting into cheap potting soil and forgot it.
              Mother Nature proved me another RdB. I love Mother Nature! πŸ˜ƒ
              Last edited by wellingtonbill; 12-17-2019, 09:14 AM.

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              • jessup42
                jessup42 commented
                Editing a comment
                She does it best & is true champ

            • #40
              Great info in your thread, thank you for sharing! Ive been reluctant to use the DE for fear of up pot deaths, but I like your approach. Ill try a bunch & see how it goes. Cheers!!
              WNC zone 7a at the intersection of Mt Pisgah & the Blue Ridge Parkway

              Comment


              • #41
                jessup42 the pure DE was pretty good as far as up potting deaths go. I think that was one of the main perks of ginamcd 100% DE method
                Actively seeking any and all varieties
                #Sharing is caring
                Courtenay, BC πŸ‡¨πŸ‡¦ zone 8a

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                • #42
                  BrandonP here is my updates. None of my cuttings started on Nov 22nd are showing any sign of roots. I started a yellow long Neck on Dec 9th, and I see roots, so far the only difference is that this is the thickest cutting I have. I will wait and see.
                  Attached Files
                  MJ
                  Chicago Zone 5a/5b

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                  • MJA829
                    MJA829 commented
                    Editing a comment
                    Bodulfr these are yours btw πŸ˜€

                  • Bodulfr
                    Bodulfr commented
                    Editing a comment
                    Awesome! Glad to see them rooting for you. Good job!

                • #43
                  So far for the two cuttings I have used this exact technique with, I have been very pleased.
                  LSU Black on left, Black Mission on right. Both started 11/22. Gonna give them a little longer (fighting the urge to up-pot LSU Black).

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                  Attached Files
                  Zone 8b, College Station, TX
                  Wish List: Maltese Beauty, CLBC.

                  Comment


                  • Lucrative
                    Lucrative commented
                    Editing a comment
                    Don't up pot yet. It's not ready. You gain nothing and it defeats the purpose if you up pot now. The soonest I have up-potted is after 2 months from the start, and that was with the Kennet Unk listed above. The roots should fill the cup all the way around like that before you up-pot. Take this opportunity where it's sucking up the water more quickly to introduce more nutrients into your mix with a 1/2 strength miracle grow or 20-20-20. You're looking great! Be patient and stick to it!

                  • BrandonP
                    BrandonP commented
                    Editing a comment
                    I'll wait.
                    I have been adding some 1/2 strength MG at times.

                • #44
                  Here's an update on my two "Unified" method rooting attempts.

                  LSU Black was rooted and 11/22. Finally on 1/8 I became impatient so I up-potted it.

                  Black Mission was rooted 11/22 as well. It is still in the cup....waiting for roots to really fill the cup so giving a week or so more maybe (will be two months in original cup).

                  Very pleased with this method! I think it buys you a lot more time in the original cup (which gives the roots lots of time to mature and branch out). It also keeps you from having to water as often as one might need to with 100% DE. I had been doing this method with other cuttings in larger pots, but I'm actually now back to starting cuttings in smaller (16 oz) clear cups again. It is much easier to monitor and manage the moisture level of the media with the smaller cups.

                  LSU Black at time of up-pot (1/8/2020)

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                  LSU Black today (1/17/2020):

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                  Black Mission today (1/17/20)
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                  Zone 8b, College Station, TX
                  Wish List: Maltese Beauty, CLBC.

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                  • nevepo
                    nevepo commented
                    Editing a comment
                    Nice looking FMV free plants. They look luxorious.

                  • Janibd
                    Janibd commented
                    Editing a comment
                    They look amazing!

                • #45
                  Does the rootball slide out easily from the clear cups? This is my first season trying to start cuttings so I am clueless what to expect.
                  Kathleen, GA/ borderline of 8a/8b Wishlist: Strawberry, Strawberry Vert, Cavaliere, Smith, Colonel Littman's Black Cross, Raspberry Latte

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                  • #46
                    How often did you have to water this improved method?
                    Zone 5 Omaha. WL - Michurinska green

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                    • BrandonP
                      BrandonP commented
                      Editing a comment
                      First few weeks much like a fig pop...not much at all...only when the media appears dry and then only around the edge of the cup.
                      When roots start showing every few days..just a little around the edge of the cup.
                      Once you get to the period just before up-potting I water almost every day a small to moderate amount (1-3 ounces).

                  • #47
                    I might just go ahead and use this method, thanks a lot!
                    David
                    SW MO Zone 6b

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                    • BrandonP
                      BrandonP commented
                      Editing a comment
                      Disclaimer..I am not @Lucrative
                      Just do it!
                      You got the idea (based on the questions you are asking). This method is very forgiving.
                      I would make sure any heat mat keeps soil below 78 degrees if possible. I think 72 to 76 is ideal from my experience. My set up does not require a heat mat to achieve this, so I don't use one.
                      I use 1 part cheap bleach to 9 parts water for 10 seconds on my cuttings, then I rinse off and allow to dry before wrapping the top in parafilm. I scrape and paint clonex on the bottom.
                      1/4 to 1/2 strength indoor Miracle grow dose with mosquito dunks dissolved in once roots show and it needs water.

                    • Lucrative
                      Lucrative commented
                      Editing a comment
                      I scrub my cuttings with Dr. Bronner's Castille Tea Tree soap. After that I spray them down with a 10% bleach solution, let them sit for like 30 seconds, give them a fresh cut at the bottom, then put them in a water bath where they will stay for at least 24 hours and at most 3 days, depending on how fast the cutting absorbs the water. I don't use pro mix HP because it's not available around me, but I probably would if it was. My mix is peat moss, perlite, d.e. and slow release granular fertilizer. Not sure exactly on the ratio. Maybe 60% peat, 35% perlite and 5% d.e. As far as pre-moistening the mix, I can't say as far as the weight goes. It's almost impossible to say. You shouldn't be able to squeeze water out of it, but even if you can't squeeze water out of it, it can still be too wet. The mix should hold together when you squeeze it. The air temps in my rooting area go from around 70 at night, and sometimes up to 83-84 during the day, not sure about the soil temps, but above that for air temp and it's too hot. I don't use a heating mat, but the way my shelving is set up, the lights heat up the bottom of the pots above, so it's similar to using one. I can't offer much advise on the wick thing. I have no experience with it. It could work. As far as fertilizer, I have the initial mix with some slow release stuff. I water with superthrive or kelp from the beginning. When there's top growth, I'll start giving it 1/2 strength miracle grow or 202020. I don't have a fertilization schedule I'm married to at this point. Others probably have that figured out better. Hope that helps 6b_figs . Good luck!

                    • 6b_figs
                      6b_figs commented
                      Editing a comment
                      Lucrative thanks for answering my many questions, I’m pretty confident moving forward now. I’d say good luck too but it seems you got it dialed in well haha cheers my friend

                  • #48
                    Just an added note because I'm having a lot of people asking questions about watering/how much/when, etc. Watering will be different for everyone given your rooting setup, where you live (humidity levels), and countless other variables. Watering is somewhat of an art, and while this method is much more forgiving of overwatering than other direct planting methods, you can still kill your cuttings by watering too much.

                    I'm finding that the mix around the d.e./perlite will start to dry out and at that point, you should water. I use a spray bottle most of the time (sometimes a turkey baster) and basically when you spray the surrounding potting mix, the d.e./perlite gets watered as well. At some point in the process, the bottoms of the cup may start to dry out, and in that situation you can place the cups in very shallow water to allow them to soak up a little bit of water from the bottom.
                    -Luke S. at Keesler AFB, 9a
                    -SAH Dad, gardener, fan of comedy, philosophy, and the deep dive on YouTube
                    -W/L: JN, CCN, Thermalito

                    Comment


                    • #49
                      More up pots using this method. Its continued to produce results, though I've had failures as well. Most of them were due to when I used the oyster shell grit that grew some fuzzy white mold/bacteria. I haven't had that issue since then. The others have largely been from when I was out of town for 12 days and a lot of them got underwatered. Lost some that were really well rooted, but have been able to save some as well.
                      Attached Files
                      -Luke S. at Keesler AFB, 9a
                      -SAH Dad, gardener, fan of comedy, philosophy, and the deep dive on YouTube
                      -W/L: JN, CCN, Thermalito

                      Comment


                      • Lucrative
                        Lucrative commented
                        Editing a comment
                        ginamcd These are ones I'm up potting today to one gallons. Upon review, I'm leaving the one in the back right for a couple more weeks.

                      • ginamcd
                        ginamcd commented
                        Editing a comment
                        Ah, so this is the "before" picture. Thanks for clarifying. And I would do the same with the one in the back right.

                      • BrandonP
                        BrandonP commented
                        Editing a comment
                        That back left one looks like a monster! I want to see some pictures of roots on that guy!
                        Congrats on the successes.
                        I have more going now and hope to be able to add further data.

                        I'd love to have enough cuttings (and time/space) to do a large comparison between this method and 100% DE and follow the plants from start through about 1 month post up-pot (about a 3 month study). I'd like to see not only which method is more successful, but also which is less labor intensive. Maybe this summer when I get all my current plants outside.

                    • #50
                      I use Harvey’s method of rooting, since then my rooting success is over 90%.
                      i use a clear and a black 32 oz container.

                      Comment


                      • Lucrative
                        Lucrative commented
                        Editing a comment
                        You've got it figured out then. That's much better than almost anyone on here. If you're that dialed in on any method, that's the one for you!

                      • Vladimir
                        Vladimir commented
                        Editing a comment
                        Where do you get these containers?
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