Bottom 5 varieties?

[don_sanders]

Hate to be negative but what about a list of your worst varieties with a short description of why? Perhaps ones that didn't taste good, unproductive, bad for your climate, whatever? Basically not worth growing to you.

I like seeing the top lists but I was wondering if a bottom list might be helpful too.

[mountainfigs]

Interesting topic. There really is no bottom five, I think, since every cultivar under suitable conditions can be spectacular. I'll mention 3 cultivars that have been unusually troublesome for me though there is plenty of evidence that others have had tremendous success with them, and I've also had a limited quantity of very good figs from these varieties too: Celeste, Conadria, Lyndhurst White / Latarolla. The latter two are very productive however tend to watery. Strong controls for water can take care of that problem, which can be extra work that many other cultivars don't require. As for Celeste, last summer I was amazed to see every of many Celeste figs but one drop before ripening, on multiple trees. Never have had remotely that amount of dropping with any other cultivar. Celeste is widely known to drop figs, even as established trees in the South perform incredibly well. It seems to me that Celeste grows the most dense canopy of leaves of any cultivar I've seen, and, just guessing, it may be that the tree needs a great amount of shade to keep the tree cool to prevent drop (studies mention that Celeste drops fruit in high heat and there is no remedy; this despite Celeste thriving variously in the South). In my pots, possibly the Celeste trees can't create enough shade for themselves, overheat, and drop all fruit. That's trouble I don't need when so many other cultivars are not so touchy. Not giving up on these three cultivars because they all have some interesting and useful qualities that I would like to keep on hand and explore (in particular, the early brebas of Conadria, the great shape of LH/Latarolla, the dense leaves and early ripening of Celeste, and the prolific fruiting of all three.) On the other hand, I can't pin great hopes on these three until I figure out if they can be better situated here in regard to rain and heat. My Celeste trees are going to the shady north side of the house this year. Conadria and LH/Latarolla may be elevated on blocks to improve drainage and prevent any roots from getting into ground to absorb extra moisture.

[Levar]

I hated my RdBs, JHAs, Holliers when I forgot to fertilize them and they got less sun due to the arrival of winter. Just a few months prior, they were some of the best.

Good growing practices are of the utmost importance.

And the difference a few days make when it comes to ripening is so profoundly transformational. Below are two JH Adriatics. The first fig is what I consider to be properly ripe for my palate. The second fig is technically ripe but really could've used a couple of more days.




Same variety, same tree. Completely different experience. Second was bland and acidic. The fig in the first photo's level of ripeness allowed the variety's unique character to shine through.

So throughout the year, I gave each 1-year-old or older fig slow release fertilizer that should last for 6 - 8 weeks before reapplication. Every week I would give them a mild soil drench with either Neptune's Harvest or Miracle Grow. (If you have any recommendations about your favorite fertilizers, I'm happy to hear them.)

And Don, I don't think this question is negative. I think you're starting an important discussion. I feel like a lot of people are going to contribute great info about what varieties are terrible for their respective areas, as well as offer insight into how they manage their collections.

So far, the only one I have my eye on in terms of removal is Texas Blue Giant. I think it might be a disappointment in my climate, where we get a lot of rain during the summer. I think Brown Turkey and its cousins like TBG would do better in arid climates.

[wellingtonbill]

Don, I agree. As a relatively new collector of figs - 40+ varieties- I have only fruited and tasted - ripe - seven or so different figs. It would be helpful to know which varieties are inferior to others, This summer I plan to thin out my pot collection and put more varieties in the ground. We should encourage this thread to take wing. Ourfigs is a great forum.

Bill aka wellingtonbill
7b NC

[Sarahkt]

I was mostly too grateful that I was even getting figs off the baby trees last summer to notice much if they were subpar, but notably White Genoa figs were bland given the relative age and size of the tree. Given the large number of cuttings of more exciting varieties and limited places to graft, I decided I wasn't even going to give WG much of another chance this year and grafted over its three large limbs with Socorro Black and a couple other varieties as a backup to the cuttings I have rooting. If it puts out fresh branches with fruit this year, great, but other figs will take precedence given limited space.

Most of the Flanders figs were also disappointing in the tree's second year fruiting, but there are so many excellent reviews for this one that I'm thinking it just needs more heat. I plan to move it to a warmer spot outside of the row of the trees in case it was simply too shaded out last year.

Black Mission was one of the first trees I got but it simply grew huge in its 25-gal pot and didn't produce a single fig. It was probably just expanding in its pot and I hope to get fruit from this year. It did generate a good number of branches last year and I used most of them as grafting limbs for backup 1-2 node grafts of rarer/tricker-to-root varieties that are also set up for rooting in bins now.

[drew51]

Osborn Prolific needs to be dead ripe, and when it is its a top tier fig in my opinion.Fantastic deep creamy caramel flavor. I love OP!

[Sarahkt]

Interesting, thanks for the comment, Drew. I'll take another look at how mine turn out this year!

[JonathanW]

Thanks for the tips, Aaron! VdB, Panache, MBVS, and Bourjasotte Grise were on my list so I’m happy to hear that they’ll perform out here. I’ll have to read up on Lampeira Prusch and St. Anthony! For whatever reason I haven’t heard much about them.

It looks like my Flanders and OP have main crops beginning to form on them so I’ll let you know how they do this year. Another thread on the forum mentioned that OP is a pretty heavy feeder and will produce dull, lackluster figs without enough minerals in the soil. When it’s happy they’re supposed to be somewhat shiny and have exceedingly good flavor. But it could also be that it just doesn’t like the hot summer afternoons here so I’ll just have to wait and see how it does.

[greenfig]

Black Madeira. Hates heat and dry SoCal weather, slow grower and producer, takes a loooog time to ripen the figs. It is ok to keep as an exotic car but if you want to get from point A to point B (i.e. eat the figs), get something more reliable that produces well and consistently.

[Altadena Mara]

My grafted BM last year grew well and produced one late fruit that was among the best tasting of any of my figs. I'm really pleased with it. My location here is slightly higher than yours. It's in the ground now where it will get late afternoon shade so I hope it will survive the summer heat blast ahead. My own-root Figo Pretos, which are said to be the same as BM, barely grew at all last year. I can see why you would find them disappointing.
The growth rate of Galicia Negra, virus free Ischia Black, and Yellow Neeches are equally slow. If, in a few years, the fruit is as good as people say, I won't care if they're still small in pots. Pots can be moved to a sheltered area when the weather gets toasty more easily that ground figs.

[bkkchris]

My grafted (Black Mission) BM KK has been growing SO slowly. It barely put on any growth in my first year, last year, but I did get one tasty fig from it. This year it started our equally slow but finally seems to be putting on a bit more growth and looks like I will get at least 2-3 figs off it. Meanwhile my Figo Preto is a monster and just keeps putting out figs each year - same soil, same conditions, seemingly same figs/flavor.

[Harborseal]

Last year it rained for 3 months straight. Many varieties didn't set figlets until late August. Those 100 or so varieties that did ripen figs were all in the bottom 5 except Longue d'Aout which was very good. Even my Hardy Chicago was late and most figs were bland. That was a first.

[paully22]

Due to souring and easy to split my 2015 bottom 5 are :

Ficazana
Bourj. Grise
Stella
Excel
White Greek

[SeattleFigs]

could you tell me about
White Greek?

[don_sanders]

Thanks for the responses so far. Some good and some surprising information. So sorry about your last years crop Bob.

[Whiterk]

Bruinswick, Big large fig that I'm just not impressed with. All other varieties I have seem to be good.

[blaze]

Pana vino dark/neri 1 (similar insipid) - both trashed couldn’t even give then away in good conscience and they were 3 years old. Long enough
little miss figgy. Bought one at Home Depot and planted it in NC. Grew a ton and no figs. TC curse
vista- my least productive of the vdb now a franken fig. Takes grafts well is a redeeming factor.
lsu gold. 4 years old and water balloons of nothing.
olympian tons of suckers a couple barely ok fruits 3 years.
hate to say it because I did have one good fig. But Dishonorable mention:
Bass’ favorite split like crazy. I lost most. It even split in my grow room which was rare. But it died over the winter. I don’t think I will look to replace it. My WM # 1. Splits like crazy. Not sure it’s true to type. Trying to grow out some new cuttings (thanks Steve) to see if it is just my tree for some reason.

[jessup42]

Always great info, thanx! Growing most those but the BFF

[Rewton]

Interesting - thanks for sharing your experiences, especially since your conditions are so similar. I have Vista in the ground I've also noticed it doesn't seem to be as productive as my other VdB types.

[Otis]

I thought this was an unusual topic when first looked at, but it is really proving to be very interesting. I'm too new with figs and really have only tasted 2 varieties, BT and possibly Unk Kodota yrs ago, but I would expect any of the cuttings I have going of varieties that aren't supposed to do well in hot, humid SC summers, will prove to be disappointing. Brunswick and Conadria come to mind, but I won't know until I've fruited them. Good reading here, TY.

[Lucrative]

LSU Gold - Tasteless, big open eye, and a splitter. Just not a good fig. Maybe for someone in a dry climate? Maybe?

Texas Everbearing - Mostly just because it was very bland. It had thick, waxy skin that I didn't love either. Didn't split though....

[nickawwad]

i am in a dry climate and have had the same experience with LSU Gold.I think its one of those figs that needs the ground or bust. same with the robs genovese Nero and Troiano Calabrese and YLN. the latter three very productive yet very very bland taste

[Thorntorn]

My least liked figs:

LSU Gold - 1st. year crop, BLAND WATER BOMB; 2nd. year crop, BLANDER WATER BOMB; and 3rd. year crop, GONE WATER BOMB!

Conadria - big and productive, but squishy, mushy, wimpy blob of nothingness!

Gladly, I don't have any more, "deplorables," than these two, which could indicate that my palate is relatively easy to be pleased. Then if so, and if they are as bad as I say, they're really bad!

Thorntorn

[nickawwad]

LOL. very funny....if you want another deplorable, add Robs GN to the list

[Bry]

"Interesting topic. There really is no bottom five, I think, since every cultivar under suitable conditions can be spectacular." Every location must have its' best fig choices for your tastes, sometimes it's gonna have to be trial and error, I suppose.

"Good growing practices are of the utmost importance." This seems very true across the board, but once your palate becomes accustomed to only the top shelf figs, look out, it's an endless chase for the next CLBC...

" It would be helpful to know which varieties are inferior to others, This summer I plan to thin out my pot collection and put more varieties in the ground. We should encourage this thread to take wing. Ourfigs is a great forum." Hear, hear!! I don't have much input yet, my

trees are still too young. This seems a part of the game of fig culture...what do I save and what do I cull. Enjoy the process and Happy growing to you! ~Bry

[Sod]

I think there’s a regional aspect to the “top 5” or in this case “bottom 5” lists. What may work great and produce awesome fruit in the NW may be absolute garbage somewhere else. Desert king is a prime example. It’s amazing here. I’ve heard that in other parts of the country it doesn’t do so well, and in warmer areas without the wasp, having a DK doesn’t make much sense because it generally needs space in the ground and potentially a cooler climate. I think for me, of the fruit I’ve had, brown turkey was just ok. If it’s ripe enough it’s kind of sweet but usually watery. Everything else has been good.

[Local]

Souadi sucked for me. Small fruit with mediocre flavor. Prolific producer that’s going to be a graft project if it doesn’t shape up this year.

[nickawwad]

I noticed you're in fallbrook. is your souadi in the ground?

[lewi]

Agristarts version of "Texas Everbearing" was a tasteless spliter in inland North West Florida. All other figs were good to excellent for me there.

[BlueEagle1967]

Conadria in the Northeast. The mere thought of it just repulses me. Wet blob of nothingness.

[RMonti]

I would agree, zone 6a, it’s a bit late for me and hit or miss with the taste, sours easily here.

[jessup42]

Once I ID my non-fruiting 5yo Unk inground fig trees I will update with my inherent junk. Might be Sleeping Giant strain but that is too optimistic. Got cuttings throwing fruit b4 these duds lol

[Local]

nickawwad no my souadi is in a 15 g nursery pot.

[eboone]

I do not have a 'bottom 5' group of fig plants.

Because I have trashed or given away the bottom 10-15 each of the past two years. Maybe I am impatient, but if after 3 years of fruiting I am not impressed, I would rather give another variety a try.

[Thorntorn]

That's right, Ed. There are too many great figs out there to give a chance to, that holding onto a variety that does not perform well for us, for whatever reason, even if popular opinion of it is favorable, it must go. Use it as rootstock. Give it to a fig enthusiast out of the area where it may shine. Whatever, move on and upward.

Thorntorn

[crademan]

In Waddell, Arizona's hot dry weather Kadota figs dry out and turn leathery/pithy inside. Kadota's a big tree that gives a lot of shade but not worth growing for figs here.

Black Jack fig's open eyes let dried fruit beetles in to sour the figs. Big, beautiful looking figs sour and turn into dripping messes over night.

[Thorntorn]

Christine,

You have a very special set of requirements for a successful crop to fully ripe and in good shape. Who would have thought such unusual obstacles like your Kadota fruit drying out, and beetles invading your open eyed Black Jack. Sheesh!!! You must have to experiment with variety after variety until you hit upon the perfect fig trees for your special growing conditions.

Thorntorn

[jrdewhirst]

I didn't respond to this thread the first time around, but here's my best shot now:

1. Late-ripening varieties. All of them. Late ripening varieties are a PIA. That includes the Adriatic's, the Palermo Reds, the EBTs, the Mission family, and maybe most of the VdB family. Plus the one-offs such as Brooklyn White, Emerald Strawberry, Long Yellow. Even Black Madeira is more trouble than it's worth. With a greenhouse, it would be a totally different story.

2. Many of the LSU varieties, including Gold, Champagne, O'Rourke. The best I can say is that they're not right for the Northeast. Champagne and O'Rourke have been weakly productive; Gold is productive enough but the fruit are merely sweet and often watery. But I like Purple and Improved Celeste.

3. San Pedros grown in the ground. It can't happen. The trees are tough enough, but in our variable weather they will drop their brebas like hail. The only answer is pots, kept indoors until mid-May.

4. Any fig grown in the ground without excellent cover. By "excellent cover" I mean (a) insulating, (b) heated, either by the ground or by artificial means. An in-ground fig tree grown in the ground poorly protected will usually die to the ground, which is a waste of the season. There is no such thing as a fig tree with fruiting wood that is cold hardy to -5 F.

5. So called "Honey figs." Blah.

[jrdewhirst]

ginamcd -- So you're asking if I put my money where my mouth is, eh?

1. Late-ripening varieties I'm generally either eliminating these varieties (Brooklyn White, Emerald Strawberry,Long Yellow) or reducing to single specimen trees (JH Adriatic, Vasilika Sika, Moscatel Branco). But I'm stubbornly struggling with the EBTs and VdBs, hoping to make them work. I got good production last year from a box-store EBT as well as a grafted Valle Negra, so the effort has not been fruitless.

2. LSU varieties. I have multiple copies of Purple and ICON. I have single trees of Gold, Champagne, and O'Rourke in the ground as an experiment. I gave away my potted Gold but so far retain one each of the other two.

3. San Pedros I do not grow in the ground. You know the drill.

4. Winter cover -- I obsess about it.

5. Honey figs are reduced to a minimum. Apart from LSU Gold and Champagne as well as Moscatel Branco, discussed above, I've got Lattarula in-ground and in a pot. I'm trialing Raasti, if that counts.

[Thorntorn]

Very valuable information there, Joe. Thanks for your evaluations.

Thorntorn

[ginamcd]

Thanks for the rundown.

I caved to temptation and added a couple of late ripening ones this year just to see 1) what all the fuss is about, and 2) see just what's possible with them if they get a head start in the portable green house.

I have a rooted cutting of LSU Tiger going, my only LSU variety not counting Imp Celeste. It was an aggressive rooter and strong grower, and this week popped three tiny figs which it will get to keep if tree growth doesn't slow or stall.

Yup, San Pedro/Breba drill noted and being implemented with six trees.

And nothing in the ground at this point. If you had asked me a couple of months back, I would have said our current home would be our retirement home. This whole Covid mess now has me questioning that...

As for honey figs, I suspect I'll feel the same once I actually get to try some, but we'll have to see. I have San Miro Piro in the shed sporting a good number of baby breba, and one of the Raasti/Iranian Candy cuttings you sent is doing quite well in the basement. Hoping it manages a few first year fruit. (I sent the extra cuttings up to Kerry so there may be someone else in this area to compare notes with on this one down the road.)

[eboone]

I really agree with a lot of what you said Joe - our climates and growing seasons, our successes and failures are rather similar. I think I have an extra week or two of growing season than you naturally, and I am using a little popup plastic greenhouse to try to start the season earlier for a few. My comments on the 5 categories you listed:

1. Late-ripening varieties.
For me I get a little more ripening of the Adriatics and VdB look-alikes so I am still growing many of them - for me I call them late mid-season. I have eliminated quite a few other late figs but am still holding on to my Preto, BMkk, Moscatel Branco, Grise Olivette, Susser Georg, Lebanese Red(Bass) and Brogiotto Nero as ones that generally start ripening after Sept 15. For now. And my Salem White in ground did not produce it's first fig till 9/16 but due to the relatively good weather I got 60+ figs off it, mostly used for fig jam.

2. Many of the LSU varieties
I have also culled Gold, Champagne, O'Rourke. Gold was mostly watery or split. Champagne and O'Rourke were productive here and did produce some nice figs at times, not consistently, but not really great in quality even at best - I would rather grow another Smith or Mt Etna than use a pot on those. But I like Tiger and Improved Celeste, and am re-trying Purple after the first one died in ground. And trialing LSU Red

3. San Pedros grown in the ground - never tried based on reports of others and plain old common sense.

4. Any fig grown in the ground without excellent cover.
Agree in my climate too.

5. So called "Honey figs." Blah.
I agree, I have culled a number of them. Still have Hollier and Atreano both of which have more flavor (not just sweetness) for a honey fig than figs like Champagne. Still have Raasti for the earliness of season. Still have Salem White to use for fig jam as above and still trialing Moscatel Branco, based on a couple good figs on a second year plant last year-but it might be too late to keep.

[davej]

Sod My Hollier rooted easily.

[jrdewhirst]

<< not really great in quality even at best - I would rather grow another Smith or Mt Etna than use a pot on those. >>

Bingo! I think I started 4-5 air layers of both Smith and Ronde de Bordeaux last summer (though many of them may end up owned by friends). And while I already have a billion Mt Etnas, I added a couple of potted Malta Blacks among others. Also a couple more Floreas. My main recent late-mid addition is Violet Sepor, which is early enough here to produce a good crop. I've got one Grise Olivette, which was new for me last year; it managed to sneak in a good crop just before the cold weather. And where you have Susser Georg, I have the box store EBT, which performed well, as well as Laradek's, which I've struggled to get a good crop from.

But honestly, I could have 95% of the pleasure with 1/2 the pain by growing multiple potted trees of (1) DK or synonyms, (2) RdB, (3) Mt Etna (Malta Black and Red Leb Bekaa), (4) Florea, (5) Smith, and (6) Violet Sepor. I guess I'm defining what I'd consider the "category killers" for the main flavor groups in New England.

Meanwhile, I continue to test other varieties, but the focus is on early. The current sophomore class includes Raasti, Pastiliere, Dalmatie, De Tres Esplets, Green Michurinska, and Black Zadar.

[eboone]

Sod - I have only rooted Hollier once, successfully, so I cannot really comment on if it is easy or not.

[drew51]

Ed and Joe, good posts! I wanted to add a little. And I'm colder than both of you. LSU Red I like. It produces well. It took 3 years for better flavor. Not a top tier fig 2nd or 3rd shelf, but tasty and productive enough for me to keep it. I almost culled it, but the 3rd year figs improved a whole lot. Same with Osborn Prolific. A keeper for me, but need to be picked one day before they mold. Some years they are not as good, but when they are good they are excellent.

I don't like sugar figs either. I did find some exceptions like Izbat an Naj. That fig I guess as a yellow is a sugar, and it's very good! Impressive for a first year fruiting fig.
I have two fairly big Adriatics and I don't get the whole crop, but I do get 75% of it, and that is a lot of figs. Very good ripening in the cold too, better than Etna's at the end of the season.

On black figs my VdB ripens all of it's figs every year. Yes late in the year and SWD is around too. I bag them when SWD appears. Keeps the yellowjackets away too!
Yeah I obtained Fort Mill Dark and it is a black fig. Last year was the first year it fruited and the figs were small. But the flavor was outstanding! It beat all other blacks, VdB, Valle Negra, Pete Negri etc. It was the best black fig in a bad year. To beat those the first time it fruits, I have high hopes! It didn't produce a lot of figs, although not unusual the first year. I have Fort Mill Park which I'm also very curious about.I got both at the same time, but Park is a slower grower. Some fruit expected this year, none last year.

https://www.ourfigs.com/forum/figs-h...not-disappoint

[jrdewhirst]

Thanks Drew. Comments like this are why I continue to struggle with the VdB group. FWIW, I gave up on Osborn Prolific. I loved the caramel flavor, when I could get the fruit perfectly ripe. But picking was a crap-shoot. Also, while the tree set a ton of fruit, much of it dropped.

[drew51]

Funny, mine never dropped. Just goes to show all gardening is local. I agree OP is not ideal. Another way I judge figs is how they dry. Many are bland fresh although much better dried. I never really dry premium figs as I never have extras! Drying though has helped a lot to concentrate flavor and sugar. of those on the edge. I still may cut OP as time goes on. Many have to go! Hoping to find a better example of that flavor OP has. It's hard for me to cut anything as I can find something good with just about everything. I admire your will power!

[blaze]

Big fan of Izbat here. Going to put one in ground this year.