I had some conversations last year on this, but I'm going over it again since I'm thinking with my new house I want to you the SIPs for the deck so they don't rot the wood under the pot with water draining if that makes sense... I have three Bills figs sips and I used the mix he sells when I tried then a few years ago, but it is to heavy. I have had some conversations with other member in the past and they have used promix with good results, but after last year I really like Farfard 52. What mixes have use used in your sips that are lighter?
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Yeah, I have used those in he past. I was adding perlite pine bark and running all over to find ingredients. Last year I tried Farfard 52 and it was very close to the mix I was making and it was less work to get it. It was more money, but I dont have the time and space to keep all the supplies. Farfard 52 is peat based also, so it should work of promix works.
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That is true. I followed bills set up and mixed in osmocote, but I always wondered how well it worked if the top of the mix never got wet since it was covered. I would occasionally water the pot from the top to try to get it going also occasional MG from the top.
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I got these mixes from ascpete and they have worked well for me:
Mini-SIPs: 2-2-1 (coir-peat-perlite) where the coir volume is measured after wetting it. For every 5 gallons of mix add 1 cup of dolomitic (agricultural lime). Once roots appear dilute liquid fertilizer is mixed into the water.
Larger SIPs: 2-1-1-1-0.5 of pine bark fines/coir/peat/perlite/oil dry. Per 5 gallons of mix also add 1 cup dolomite lime,1 cup espoma tree-tone (or garden-tone) and 0.5 cup espoma iron-tone.Steve
D-i-c-k-e-r-s-o-n, MD; zone 7a
WL: Castillon, Fort Mill Dark, White Baca
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I have 4 of Bill's Figs pots and I use the 100% mushroom compost that he gives you when you buy it. It seemed like an a heavy mix (and it is) but I can't argue with the incredible success of these SIP's . Now when I root prune I still buy and use 100% mushroom compost. It's a very heavy pot to move into my shed but the results are phenomenal.
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Yes, I used mushroom compost when i had them set up, but I think its just to heavy. I'm Thinking I would like to keep these on my deck and I don't want to kill myself getting them up the steps. Thanks Rewton, I might start making my own mix some day, but two years ago I was driving all over the state looking for the right ingredients, buying as much as a can and storing it in my every shrinking garage, then spent a lot of time mixing everything up just right making a mess. Then last year I tried some of the bagged stuff that was recommended on the forums and i think I had good results. i really didn't see much of a difference from the 5-1-1 type mix I was making and I just opened the bag up and filled the pot. The plane to buy it is 15 minutes away and it was nice to not spend all day just up potting.
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I havnt done the math. In sure mixing my own was cheaper, but when I factored in two seasons ago I literally drove around all day trying to find this place that sold pine bark fines it wasn't worth it. On top of that the garage in my new house is smaller. I don't have space to store all these bags and bales. I'm pretty lucky there is a nice nursery supply place near me. They have pretty much everything. The only downside is it really is geared for bulk. I don't buy enough at a time to get better prices.
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Question regarding potting mix for SIPs
From what I have read, the advantage of the 5:1:1:1 mix is that it promotes better drainage, preventing waterlogged soil and better air to the roots. In a SIP, many cover the top to reduce the effect of rain and water only from below. I guess this kind of mix would still help with aeration of the roots, probably compacting less over time, but I'm not sure how 'drainage' is important without water from above. Is this kind of mix (or 4:2:1:1 as AscPete has suggested in a similar recent post about potting mixes) better in a SIP simply because it holds less water than a standard Pro-Mix or MG potting mix?Ed
SW PA zone 6a
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Ed,
Yes, I've posted this link before, http://ohioline.osu.edu/hyg-fact/1000/1251.html it has some useful information about aeration and water retention.
The finer mix will increase the saturation zone in the container. The more aerated coarser mix will decrease the saturation zone, which will also increase aeration. Drainage is important because figs like most plants don't like to grow in saturated soil, as the soil becomes more water retentive it will also be less aerated which will affect the plant's growth, but they can and will become acclimated to the increased moisture in time.
The inherent design of a SIP is based on the saturation zone, capillary action and the wick create this "zone" between the reservoir and the bottom of the planter.
BTW here's a list of all the commercially available mixes that have been used in Earthbox SIPs, http://earthbox.com/approved-for-earthbox
The SIP mix can be as simple as Peat (85% - 60%) and Perlite (15% - 40%) with the added amendments (pulverized Dolemite Limestone) and fertilizers, the higher peat content will just hold more water.
Last edited by AscPete; 03-13-2015, 11:28 AM.Pete R - Hudson Valley, NY - zone 5b
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Thanks for your great insight Pete.
In your recent post in the "What potting mix are you using..." thread ( http://www.ourfigs.com/forum/figs-ho...sing-this-year ), you stated:
For containers, I'm still using Tapla's modified 5-1-1-1 mix, (Pine bark fines - Peat - Perlite - Calcined clay). the mix is still viable after 3 years in use. Dolemite Limestone @ 1 cup, Espoma-Tone Fertilizer @ 2 cups and Ironite @ 1/2 cup per each 5 gallon of mix. For SIPs I'm using the same ingredients at a ratio of 4-2-1-1. I often substitute pea gravel for the Perlite because it only adds ~ 6 Lbs for every 5 gallons of mix. And an added benefit of the Calcined clay is that it prevents the mix from becoming hydrophobic and makes it very easy to water from a completely dry state.
Thanks again for your help!Ed
SW PA zone 6a
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You're welcome...
The "Peat" refers to high soil porosity content of the potting mix (fines). The Calcined clay also has high porosity, it absorbs water, so does Pine Bark and ~20% of the Pine bark fines when sifted will be smaller than 1/8 inch.
I prefer a more aerated mix, so I've settled on that ratio for healthier root growth. It would be easy to increase the actual Peat portion by 1 part to get better wicking / capillary action in the mix.
The general recommendation for SIPs is the one recommended by Earthbox, for regular Gardening of Vegetables and Flowers.
The growing media should be peat-based (70%-80%)
BTW Fafard 52 uses ~60% pine bark in its recipe, but its composted bark which increases the porosity (fines).
To put it simply, you have to consider all the properties of all the ingredients in the potting mix.Pete R - Hudson Valley, NY - zone 5b
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