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  • 1.0 Cuttings. Collecting, Preparing and Storing.

    1.01 Collecting / Harvesting;
    Cuttings can be taken in the early winter after leaf fall or early spring just before bud break.
    in colder zones where the unprotected branches will be exposed to extended temperatures below 15 deg F. its recommended to take the cuttings before they are damaged by the cold.
    In warmer zones the cuttings can be taken in early spring just before bud break, which is the usual recommended time. One reason why this is preferred is that the sap is starting to flow and the plant cells (branches) are being hydrated in preparation for bud break.
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    1.02 Preparing
    The cuttings can be prep'd by washing (if needed), cut to length to fit in the storage bags, with the bottom ends cut just below the lowest node. The cut ends can be sealed with wax, pruning sealer, grafting tape etc to reduce dessication.
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    1.03 Storing;
    Cuttings can be stored in plastic bags in a refrigerator's crisper drawer for several months. They should be stored dry possibly with some dry material as a desiccant to trap condensation, my preference is ~ 1/4 cup per 1 gallon bag of long fibered sphagnum moss but any dry material with a low pH value, to reduce microbial growth will work.
    Last edited by AscPete; 03-23-2015, 10:03 AM.
    Pete R - Hudson Valley, NY - zone 5b

  • #2
    If you just took off all green leaves and a small portion of the stem still remains with some sap, should you wait till it heals and falls off before taking cuttings, or take the cuttings now, wash, seal, dry, and store... then remove the stem remains and ship?
    I feel like I missed the posts that talk about cutting prep, or most people just wait till the leaves drop, but I have a lot of trees that are still green long after everyone else’s have dropped and want to send some cuttings for trade and don’t want to screw it up for them... any thoughts or insight would be greatly appreciated.

    I just removed all leaves tonight and I’m not sure how long I should wait till they get the chop.
    Tucson AZ zone 9a

    Comment


    • AscPete
      AscPete commented
      Editing a comment
      If the leaves and petioles are still green with flowing sap the trees are not dormant...
      When dormant the sap will stop flowing, the leaf petioles will separate easily and cleanly from the stems.

      It only took ~ 1 week for my trees to go from green to dormant after a killing frost.

      You can speed the process / defoliate, but the petiole stubs need to be remove later because in storage or rooting the remaining (green) stubs are usually a breeding ground for microbes and mold. Good luck.

  • #3
    Appropriate and timely as always, AscPete. Could I suggest making the cuts leaving enough stem below and above the nodes so that when you are ready to start your cuttings later you can still make a fresh cut and retain the lowest or uppermost bud.
    Cheryl (f/k/a VeryNew2Figs) Zone 5a/6a
    What I'm growing: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets...it?usp=sharing

    Comment


    • AscPete
      AscPete commented
      Editing a comment
      CoolClimateFigger ,
      Good suggestion!

      I usually leave ~ 1/4 inch below the lowest node, with as much extra as possible above the apical node to be sealed for any possible die-back and never cut off the top / apical ends.

      And, before applying rooting hormone I flip the bypass pruner over in my hand (upside down) to get a thin shaving cut off the bottom of stored cuttings, the thin slice / shaving can also be done on a hard surface (small cutting board) with a sharp knife or utility razor.

      BTW, this topic was started in 2015.

  • #4
    Well done, Pete!
    Zone 7A - Philadelphia
    Flavor Profiles & Variety List / Facebook / YouTube / Blog

    Comment


    • AscPete
      AscPete commented
      Editing a comment
      Thanks...

  • #5
    LOL. I didn't even notice the date. Well, timely bump😊.
    Cheryl (f/k/a VeryNew2Figs) Zone 5a/6a
    What I'm growing: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets...it?usp=sharing

    Comment


    • AscPete
      AscPete commented
      Editing a comment
      It was so long ago I had forgotten about it...

  • #6
    Good timing Pete. I have a question for anyone reading I would like to know by what means do u seal the cut ends ? I have used parafilm, candel wax but I'm wondering if there's a faster way I'm going to try dipping the end in Elmer's glue it should seal and be easy enough to deal off later. I would like to hear other suggestions
    JLB zone 8b south Mississippi. Wish list really good figs thay don't split with all this dang humidity

    Comment


    • AscPete
      AscPete commented
      Editing a comment
      I have and still use Elmer's School Glue if the cut end is exposed to dry indoor ambient conditions. I have Parafilm but don't use it because it doesn't actually seal the cut end, moisture still escapes, it breathes. Pruning Sealer is used on pruning cuts done in winter on the stored trees.

      But an inexpensive Toilet Bowl Seal Wax Ring is what I've been using for cuttings for several years, the same $1.50 wax ring (stored in a zip lock bag) is still going strong...

      https://www.homedepot.com/p/Fluidmas...7510/203763996

      Edit;
      It is applied cold, at Room Temperatures. No need to melt, it sticks to everything, like super thick Vaseline...
      Last edited by AscPete; 12-02-2018, 06:21 AM. Reason: Added link and Edit....

    • Rickyv101
      Rickyv101 commented
      Editing a comment
      I hope you do not mind.

      In old day, Toilet ring made by bee-based wax, its melting point is 110F to 120F
      This day, Toilet ring typically produced from petroleum-based wax, it melting point is 140F to 170F.
      Is high melting point better or lowest better?

    • AscPete
      AscPete commented
      Editing a comment
      Rickyv101 ,
      Why would I mind? It’s even a Relevant Question...

      Melting point Matters... Any Melted Wax has to be below 140 deg F or else it will kill the plant tissue...

      But Toilet Bowl Wax is used at Room Temperature... No Need To Melt.

      It’s petroleim based like very thick Vaseline,..
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