Fig rot

[don_sanders]

Anyone seen this before?

I thought I was going to get to try panache this year but what started out as 8-10 figs in May is down to 3 so I'm not to sure.

Some of the smaller ones fell off and some of the bigger ones look to be rotting before they ripen now.

It's been fairly dry here and the tree is growing in a 5 gallon sip with about 6 hours of sun a day. The tree looks healthy otherwise.

Thanks!

[Taverna78]

Interesting. Is it dry? Or slim rot?

[don_sanders]

Slimy outside and dry inside.

[SarinaP]

No clue, but this makes me really sad. At least the tree is okay.

[COGardener]

Looks like it was left in a bag in the sun for a day. So sorry Don, hopefully you get something off of the tree!!!

[Taverna78]

Maybe pick before rot and put in brown paper bag to finish ripen before rot?

[fitzski]

Most figs do not ripen when they are removed the tree. Does Bi39 ripen after they are removed the tree?

[don_sanders]

It's not even close to ripe yet. Still white inside. I was thinking another month or so.

[cjmach1973]

I would watch out for any odd bugs, otherwise, could it be like the rot you can get on tomatoes when there isn't enough calcium?

[COGardener]

Blossom end rot.

When you said bugs Art, it made me think of the SWD that plague some members.

[don_sanders]

I haven't noticed any but I'll have to keep an eye out for bugs. Didn't see any maggots in it or flying around.

Any thoughts on what nutrients might be needed?

It's in 40% compost / 40% peat / 20% perlite with 1 cup plant tone and 1 cup limestone. Maybe 1 cup of green sand. Supplemental liquid fertilizers on occasion. Same setup I'm using for the rest that seem to be doing well. Golden Celeste did drop a bunch but seemed overloaded and they didn't seem to rot like this.

[Taverna78]

When almost ripe put in bag. Sì bi39 do. Same with I 258

[AscPete]

Don,

Photos of the tree may be helpful, but I would have to agree with Art cjmach1973 that it may be due to Calcium and mineral deficiencies. I've not personally experienced any similar symptoms but have had brown spots on Hardy Chicago trees that have been cleared up with an application of Gypsum and a Mineral Supplement. Another Issue could be the pH, which can inhibit absorption of the available nutrients.

Fig syconium (fruit) are rich in Calcium, Magnesium, Potassium, Iron, etc. it only makes sense that these nutrients are needed in sufficient quantities to ensure proper development of healthy trees and figs. Good Luck

[don_sanders]

Pics of the tree below.

There is a cup of dolomite lime in the 5 gallon of mix.

I gave it a shot of Epsom salt and liquid iron within the last month.

Thanks.

[AscPete]

The fertilizers and supplements are required by the plants at the same time in 'Balanced' proportion since they are metabolized together for healthy growth, for potted culture this is accomplished by having a feeding schedule, either at the beginning or during the growing season.

IMO, The initial fertilizer dose and subsequent fertilization / supplementation appears less than recommended. The problems experienced by the Panache may simply be due to it not being able to properly metabolize the available nutrients. Increasing the available nutrients both Macro and Micro nutrients is often a means of counteracting some growth and production problems.

[don_sanders]

Pics of the tree as suggested.

[AscPete]

Thanks for sharing the photos...

Judging by the new leaves you may need some additional N-P-K.
Espoma recommends 2 - 3 cups of fertilizer for ~ 5 gallons of mix but when supplementing on a schedule with water soluble fertilizers every 1 - 2 weeks the Espoma can be reduced by half (1/2). You could also supplement with Gypsum @1/4 cup and Epsom salt @1 teaspoon per gallon of water for each 5 gallons of mix.

Along with the fertilizer schedule using a "Balanced" water soluble fertilizer like Miracle-Gro Tomato formula may provide the additional Calcium and Nutrients required for healthier fig development.

[don_sanders]

I did give it some liquid gold 4-5 days ago. Do you think that I should still keep supplying a good amount of N this late in the season? I was thinking of reducing it and using a "bloom" fertilizer going forward.

I haven't used Gypsum. Do you think a cup of dolomite lime is not enough for 5 gallons of mix or were you thinking I might need more sulphur? I imagine that there is at least some sulphur in my compost but no idea how much or other sources.

[AscPete]

I have no idea of the analysis of Liquid Gold.

Nitrogen is still supplied by most Bloom Fertilizers, just at a lower or reduced percentage / ratio than the Grow.

Dolemite limestone takes time and soil microbes to breakdown, I usually wind up with more than 2 cups in each 5 gallon bucket and additional Calcium from the Espoma, Ironite and or Gypsum.

Sulfur is also usually available as a by product of several of the Fertilizer or Supplements.

But all the essential nutrients are required in the mix at the same time in sufficient quantity to be used (metabolized) by the plants,

http://fertsmart.dairyingfortomorrow.com.au/dairy-soils-and-fertiliser-manual/chapter-3-plant-nutrient-requirements/3-3-the-essential-plant-nutrients/

[don_sanders]

Pretty sure that this was the result of mites. Taking a closer look, I was able to see some on the leaves. While trying to look up what fig mites look like, I noticed another post of a spider mite infestation with similar fruit.

Not sure what kind of mites, haven't noticed any webbing yet but spider mites would make sense and they seemed to move like spider mites. Lots of new trees this year so fig mites could be a possibility too though. To small to take pics. May try spraying some Forbid on the tree and surrounding trees. There is only one fig left in it that I don't imagine will ripen anyway.

Anyone have any good pics of what fig mites look like through a low power microscope? Do they move relatively fast on the leaves or stay pretty still?

Thanks.